» Primer for beer carbonation

Beer carbonation calculator with sugars

The calculator will determine the level of carbonation based on the type and amount of sugar added, including the remaining amount of CO2 present in the beer due to fermentation temperature. In addition, it will calculate the additional alcohol obtained from the fermented sugar. The calculator supports dextrose, table sugar (sucrose), honey, dry and liquid malt extracts. Sugar is added during bottling. Residual yeast in the beer ferments the added sugar, which leads to the formation of CO2 and natural carbonation of the beer.

A Guide to Carbonating Beer Styles

See also:

• Step-by-step instructions for preparing beer primer and carbonation
• Download excel calculator for carbonation of beer with fermentable sugars (available for VIP users)

*Beer temperature is used to calculate dissolved CO2:
The beer you're about to add sugar to already contains some CO2, as it is a natural byproduct of fermentation. The amount of CO2 depends on the temperature of the beer; CO2 dissolves better in colder beer than in colder beer. The addition temperature is usually the fermentation temperature of the beer, but it can also be a different temperature. If the fermentation temperature and the current one when adding the primer correspond, then it is enough to indicate the current temperature for calculation.

However, in practice it happens that the fermentation temperature may be higher or lower than the current temperature of the beer due to a diacetyl rest, or cold aging of the beer, or the temperature has changed for some other reason.... In this case, you will need to decide what indicate the optimal temperature that is most suitable for calculation. During cold aging, some CO2 will dissolve into the beer. If your cold soak lasts for a very long time, this can cause a significant increase in dissolved CO2.

This calculator uses the following equation to calculate CO2:
CO2 in beer = 3.0378 - (0.050062 * temp) + (0.00026555 * temp^2)

The calculator shows the CO 2 level before adding sugar. Since during the fermentation process a certain amount of CO 2 is retained in beer. The amount of dissolved CO 2 directly depends on temperature.

Don't over primer!
The calculator tells you the approximate amount of sugar needed to raise CO2 levels from initial to final.
Increased carbonation leads to a number of problems, such as excessive foaming of beer, exploding bottles and blistering caps.

Note on sugars: Corn sugar and dextrose are the same thing. Dextrose is the most popular primer sugar. Table sugar is also used, and corn sugar is considered to be 91% table sugar. Table sugar contains 100% sucrose. Dry malt extract (DME) is another option. This calculator uses 68% DME from sucrose.

Beer carbonation methods. Carbonation is one of the key stages of brewing technology, the meaning of which is the addition of carbon dioxide to beer. As a rule, carbonation directly affects the quality of the finished beer, and specifically how the beer foams. The carbonization process can be carried out by forced or natural methods.

Natural carbonation method

This is the usual saturation of beer with carbon dioxide (CO2). This is achieved due to the fact that the yeast releases carbon dioxide during active fermentation. To achieve this, sugar is added to unfiltered, young beer (in any form or in pure form). This promotes the secondary fermentation process. As a result, the beer is saturated with the product of the sugar breakdown reaction. As a result, due to the presence of live yeast, a process of natural carbonation of beer occurs.

Forced carbonation

In cases where after fermentation of beer there is an insufficient amount of CO2, the method of artificial carbonation is used. The reason for the insufficient CO2 content was most likely gas losses during production processes.

In such cases, the beer is placed in a sealed container and carbon dioxide is pumped in under pressure. Typically, this carbonation method is used for filtered beer. This method is becoming a necessity in brewing technology on an industrial scale. At home, the method of forced carbonation of homemade beer can be done using siphons, which are used to carbonate water.

Maturation and carbonation of homemade beer takes place under similar conditions as primary fermentation. This process lasts 1-3 weeks, depending on what raw materials are used for natural carbonation.

This method is more economical, since it does not require filtration and significant costs. Most homebrewers today use this method. American, classic English and Belgian ales are carbonated using this method.

Raw materials used to stimulate natural carbonation

“Primer” is what brewers call the glucose and sugar they use for natural carbonation.

It is not advisable to use sugar in its pure form. This can affect the taste characteristics of the beer, giving it the taste of mash or kvass. Its source can be honey, licorice extract, corn sugar. As alternative raw materials, molasses, cane sugar, chocolate syrup, juice concentrates, etc. can be used.

Syrup

When making an imperial stout or a heavy pot, molasses is typically used to stimulate natural carbonation. It is consumed in the ratio of 250 ml of syrup per 20 liters of beer. In order for the molasses to be evenly distributed throughout the volume of beer, you need to prepare syrup from it. The molasses is dissolved in water in equal parts and boiled. The foam that formed during boiling is removed, and then the finished syrup is poured into beer. Carbonation stimulated by the addition of molasses lasts up to 2 weeks.

Honey

Honey is often used for natural carbonation. For 20 liters of beer you need about 100 ml of honey. Honey is diluted in the same way as molasses. Carbonation takes place within 2 weeks.

Correction of carbonation errors

Almost all problems associated with errors in the carbonation of homemade beer can be easily eliminated. We list the most common of them:

• A poor-quality plug can cause most of the hydrocarbon to volatilize, resulting in insufficient carbonation. You need to replace the cork, shake and set aside for a couple of days;
• even if after 2 weeks the beer is not carbonated enough, you can move it to a warmer place;
• Poor quality raw materials or insufficient quantities may cause the effect of carbonation to be small. Adding an extra few dried grains of yeast to each bottle may correct the situation;
• Drinking very chilled beer may reduce carbonation levels.

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The characteristic pop when opening the bottle and light smoke from the neck appear due to carbon dioxide. The process of saturating beer with carbon dioxide is called carbonation. Factories use special containers - post-fermentation tanks, in which beer ferments under high pressure, but this is an expensive technology. At home, the most popular way to make beer carbonated is to use a primer - a substance containing sugars, which in turn cause re-fermentation.

You can visually determine the degree of carbonation of beer by the number of bubbles in a glass with a freshly poured drink: the more bubbles there are, and the faster they rise from the bottom, the more the beer is saturated with carbon dioxide. The second indirect indicator is the height of the foam head, but foam is influenced more by the quality of the malt and mash than by carbonation.

You can artificially carbonate homemade beer with a carbon dioxide cylinder (forced carbonation). This requires special equipment: kegs, fittings, the cylinder itself and the reducer. The installation will also have to be periodically charged with carbon dioxide.

Example of equipment for carbonating beer in kegs

The advantages of the technique: the beer turns out clear and without yeast sediment, and kegs are easier to transport over long distances. Disadvantages - carbonation equipment is expensive and requires proper use; after beer is bottled from kegs, the shelf life is a maximum of a couple of weeks.

The easiest and cheapest way to carbonate homemade beer is to add some sugars to the fermented wort to cause a slight re-fermentation, resulting in natural carbon dioxide. Disadvantage: a yeast sediment forms at the bottom of the bottle, which cannot be removed using improvised means.

How to make a beer primer

To carbonate, brewed and fermented beer is drained from the sediment into a clean fermentation vessel with one of 5 types of primer previously added.

1. Beet sugar or honey. The most affordable way. You need 7 grams of sugar or 5 grams of liquid honey per 1 liter of beer. A significant disadvantage of carbonation with sugar (honey) is that the beer is almost guaranteed to develop a leavened taste.

Sugar is the worst primer

2. Fructose. It is a sugar obtained from sweet fruits rather than beets. The main benefit of fructose carbonation is less sour taste. The correct dosage is 8 grams per 1 liter of beer.

3. Dextrose (glucose). One substance is hidden under two different names - dextrose is glucose in powder form. Carbonation of beer with dextrose (required 8 grams per 1 liter) gives even less brew (kvass) taste than sugar and fructose.

It’s easier to add syrup and there’s less risk of contaminating the beer.

Sugar, fructose and dextrose can be poured dry directly into the bottle, but in order not to infect the beer with pathogenic microorganisms and speed up fermentation, it is better to make a syrup: mix the required amount of primer in grams with the same amount of water in milliliters, bring to a boil, boil for 5-10 minutes over low heat, skimming off the foam. Cover the finished syrup with a lid, cool to room temperature and add to beer.

4. Malt extract (concentrate). Sold in brewing stores, it is saccharified and boiled wort, from which as much liquid as possible has been evaporated. It is better to use an unhopped concentrate. To carbonate 1 liter of beer, 9-12 grams of extract are required (the higher the quality, the less). It is advisable to boil the syrup using standard technology (described above). Does not give off any foreign odors or tastes. Disadvantage: the concentrate must be purchased separately.

5. Young wort. The most correct method, usually experienced brewers, by the word “primer” mean the carbonization of beer with wort, since in this case a pure taste is obtained, and the primer itself is easy to make at home.

Technology: in the last minutes of cooking (after adding aromatic hops), 10% of the wort is poured into a clean, sterilized container, for example, a jar, hermetically sealed and left in the refrigerator. After the beer has fermented, the wort is added for carbonation and stirred.

When carbonating with wort, the main thing is not to forget to leave the primer

The beer with the primer is sealed with a water seal for 30 minutes to activate fermentation, after which the drink is bottled, corked and transferred to maturation. The brewer's yeast remaining in the wort will cause re-fermentation, which will saturate the drink with carbon dioxide. The carbonation time for beer depends on the recipe and the desired degree of carbonation, usually 14-35 days.

Carbonation of beer occurs during its maturation and secondary fermentation. The product is additionally saturated with carbon dioxide. When preparing a drink yourself, it is important to correctly calculate the volume of impurities, otherwise the bottles may explode.

What is beer carbonation and why is it necessary?

Carbonation is the process of saturating a drink with carbon dioxide. Beer initially contains a certain amount of compounds. During primary fermentation, yeast releases alcohol and carbon dioxide. However, in most cases, the quality of the product does not meet consumer requirements, so additional saturation is carried out.

As the volume of carbon dioxide in the drink changes, the size of the foam cap increases. Additionally, the quality of the malt influences the indicator. After carbonization, the taste and smell of the product change. However, it is important to correctly calculate the proportions of raw materials, otherwise the bottles will swell. Excessive saturation is fraught with premature spoilage of the product. The volume of sugar depends on the initial amount of gas, type of raw material, batch size and holding temperature.

Forced saturation method

Forced saturation is achieved by direct injection of carbon dioxide into the product under pressure. This method is most often used by breweries. At home, drinks are carbonated with a primer, since equipment for forced saturation is expensive.

The advantages of the method include relative autonomy, stability of the result and minimal intervention in the chemical composition of the drink. If you have the necessary knowledge, the process is simplified. Forced saturation allows you to obtain more stable results regardless of the quality of the wort, season, minor errors and other factors. An additional portion of carbon dioxide without sugar and other impurities is introduced into the composition, so the drink retains its original taste.

The disadvantages of forced saturation include the high cost of equipment. Additionally, problems arise during transportation. After spilling, drinks should be consumed within 2-3 weeks, since the artificially introduced gas quickly disappears.

Natural saturation method

The natural saturation method involves the release of carbon dioxide during secondary fermentation. The microorganisms remaining after processing the wort help convert glucose. The intermediate product contains little sugar, so it is necessary to further enrich the liquid with substances.

The natural saturation method is relatively cheap, since the manufacturer only needs to add a primer to the product after primary fermentation. Disadvantages include instability of the result, changes in taste and the presence of sediment in the finished drink. The degree of saturation of the final product depends not only on the type of raw material for carbonization, but also on the season of its collection, the conditions of its transportation, the level of temperature and humidity during storage, etc. A number of circumstances cannot be controlled by the manufacturer, so it is almost impossible to obtain identical batches.

For natural saturation, you have to add third-party products to drinks. These include honey, sugar, dextrose, etc. Additives change the taste of beer. The degree of intervention depends on the production technology and the type of raw material. Since saturation occurs due to the activity of microorganisms, yeast precipitate falls after processing is completed. It is not possible to get rid of it using improvised means at home.

Raw materials to stimulate natural carbonation

The following products are most often used for saturation:

1. Beet sugar. Can be added in pure form. The standard dosage is 7 g of crystals per 1 liter of liquid. Adding sugar is the simplest method of saturation, but in most cases, after fermentation the drink develops a strong taste of kvass.
2. Fructose. It is allowed to be added to the product in its pure form. The standard dosage is 8 g of fructose per 1 liter of drink. After fermentation, there is a risk of a kvass taste, but its severity will be less than when adding beet sugar.
3. Honey. The standard dosage is 5 g per 1 liter of liquid. Carbonation with honey may result in a kvass taste or overly sweet notes.
4. Dextrose. The dosage of powdered glucose is 8 g per 1 liter. There is less off-flavor when using dextrose. Glucose can be added to the drink in its pure form.
5. . The concentrate can be purchased in specialized stores. The extract is wort from which excess liquid has been removed. It is recommended to use a product without hops in the composition. The standard dosage depends on the quality of the raw materials and the manufacturer's recommendations. The concentrate practically does not change the taste of the drink.
6. Wort. For saturation, a product is used to which yeast has not yet been added. Wort is the preferred type of raw material because it has the most similar qualities to the final product.

Some manufacturers use exotic products for saturation. For example, chocolate or maple syrup, molasses.

Before adding raw materials, it is recommended to disinfect them. Sugar products are mixed with water and syrup is prepared. Heat treatment eliminates the formation of mold and premature spoilage of the drink. The proportions of water and sugar should be the same. When preparing the syrup, it is important to remove the foam that is released when heated. After the process is completed, the liquid should be cooled.

How to carbonate beer at home

The sequence of actions depends on the type of raw material. If sugar is used, syrup is prepared from it in advance. The young wort is drained after adding hops. 10% of the total volume is required for saturation. The product is stored in an airtight glass container in the refrigerator. Additionally, calculations should be made in advance. To determine the volume of raw materials, you can use a beer carbonation calculator.

After fermentation is completed at home, the tools are first prepared. All accessories are disinfected to prevent pathogens from entering the drink. After disinfection, the primer is distributed evenly across all bottles or mixed with the total volume. It is advisable to minimize contact with air. Special systems, siphon, hoses, etc. can be used to transport wort.

After thorough mixing, the finished mixture is sealed in an airtight container. This is necessary to activate fermentation reactions. After 30 minutes, the liquid can be bottled. The container is left in a dark place at standard fermentation temperature for ripening. After a week, the drink can be placed in the refrigerator for storage.

Sometimes there is a lack of gases. The problem occurs for the following reasons:

1. Dead yeast. Microorganisms die at high temperatures. Traditionally this occurs by adding a hot primer. If some of the yeast remains, the colony may recover, but it will take longer.
2. Incorrect temperature. When storing the drink in the refrigerator, saturation does not occur, because microorganisms cease their vital functions.
3. Insufficient primer.

The degree of saturation can be determined by the pressure level in the bottle. If the containers remain soft, you can increase the holding period, move them to a warm place or shake the container. The latter method will help to evenly distribute living microorganisms and release them from the sediment. You can add an additional portion of primer, but in the absence of live yeast this will only worsen the taste.

In this article we will discuss the eternally relevant topic of natural carbonation. Most commercial breweries carbonate their finished beer with carbon dioxide. We also have this option when we use kegs and artificially carbonate our beer in the same way. But we homebrewers also know that carbonation can be achieved naturally by simply doing a secondary fermentation after bottling. Because the bottle is sealed, any pressure that would normally escape through the water seal remains in the beer. And this is not just a twist of fate!

Preparing your beer for natural carbonation involves finally pouring your clarified beer into a priming media mixture. Most fermentables are suitable for carbonating beer. After beer with a primer (fermentable substances for carbonation, maybe we should call it priming or priming?*) is racked from the lees and bottled, it should remain at the same temperature as the primary fermentation temperature for 7 to 21 days depending on what raw material was used for carbonation. After this time, you can start drinking the drink or leave it further to mature in a cool room.
Below are some of the most common components used to naturally carbonate beer.

Corn sugar (glucose, dextrose*). Brewing corn sugar is the most widely used ingredient for carbonating beer. It is reliable, ferments almost entirely, and according to most does not leave any noticeable flavor. I always hear stories of new brewers who remember helping their dads measure sugar into each bottle, only to have the bottles spout and explode. This was likely caused by inaccurate measurements or contaminated sugar. To avoid such cases, boil the entire volume of sugar for five minutes with about one cup of water and mix with the entire volume of the brewed beer, thereby eliminating the problem of uneven carbonation as well as bacterial contamination. A good way to mix the primer is to pour it into the bottling container first, and then carefully pump the wort into the container.

The amount of corn sugar used may vary depending on the type of beer and the temperature at which it is served. A good idea would be to start with three-quarters of a cup (177 ml) per five-gallon (19 L) batch. Most people tend to drink lighter beers at cooler temperatures. Since colder liquids tend to absorb more CO2, people drinking ice-cold beer can use up to one cup of sugar (236-240 ml), but be careful when you decide to take a case of it out of town in the back of your van. ! Beer carbonated with one cup of sugar per five gallon volume should be kept cool. Beers enjoyed warmer can be carbonated at three-quarters of a cup, although some prefer a lighter carbonation at two-thirds of a cup (157 ml). As always, your own preference is fundamental, and after making a few batches, you will develop your own system. The standard time for carbonation with corn sugar is seven to 14 days. If you carbonate with corn sugar, the carbonation level usually stays the same over time.

Malt extract. Dry malt extract or extract in syrup form can be used to carbonate beer. Dry extract is easier to use; it is preferable to use light malt, but in principle any color of malt will do. I've never heard of using hop extract for carbonation, but if anyone decides to try it, I'd love to see the results. Using malt extract, start with 1.25 cups (295 ml) by boiling it in a pint of water. Malt extract contains only about 70-80 percent of the fermentable matter (by weight) of corn sugar, so you must use more of it. Adjust the extract as you would with corn sugar, depending on the type and serving temperature of the beer. Boil the malt extract for a few minutes until it hot breaks (or hot coagulates*), (the foaming that occurs at the beginning of the boil), so be sure to use a large enough pan when doing this.

Beers with added malt as a primer tend to take longer to carbonate, typically taking 10 to 14 days to fully carbonate. Malt carbonation is ideal for browns and darker ales because malt-primed beers typically have the foamy, dense head characteristic of these types of beers.

Honey. Honey can be used to carbonate beers and sparkling meads. The honey plumb rate is one-half cup (118 ml) per five gallons. The honey also needs to be boiled and the resulting foam removed. Once foaming has stopped and the liquid has cooled, use it as a primer as usual. To achieve carbonation you should wait 10-14 days.

Syrup. Add one cup per five gallons when using this form of sugar for carbonation. Use the same boiling regime as with malt. Molasses is said to be good in a heavy porter or imperial stout. Carbonation time is about the same as corn sugar.

Brown sugar. This is nothing more than refined cane sugar with a small admixture of molasses. Use three-quarters of a cup and cook exactly as you would for corn sugar.

Other raw materials. Fermentable materials are all around us: sap concentrate, maple syrup, coffee syrup and chocolate syrup, to name just a few. When experimenting with them, the key is to determine their fermentable sugar content and convert it to the amount of corn sugar contained in three-quarters of a cup, which is approximately 4 ounces (113 g). Who knows, maybe the explosion of flavor from the cranberry-chocolate syrup you used for carbonation could sway the judge's opinion in your favor.

The Kraeusening method is a more advanced form of natural carbonation. To accomplish this process, brewers add unfermented or "green" beer as a primer. For more information on this method, see Zymurgy Winter 1993 (vol. 16, no. 5).

Methods for correcting deficiencies
The problem of insufficient carbonation is usually easy to identify and can sometimes be corrected. If after 10-14 days the refrigerated beer seems stale, place the bottle in a warm place (70-75 degrees F, 22-24 degrees C) for 48 hours. If the beer carbonates after this, you simply under-carbonated it. Drink this beer warm to enjoy the carbonation and chalk it up to experience. If the beer still hasn't gained gas, examine the gasket on the cap - are these by any chance the same old caps you picked up at the flea market? If so, re-cork one bottle, shake it and wait a few days. Still no results? “If the thunder didn’t reach you, then maybe the lightning will” (not by washing, but by rolling*). Your yeast may have died from unknown causes or from being in secondary fermentation for too long. Try uncorking the bottle and adding a couple of grains of dry yeast and capping it again. Wait 7-10 days and try.

If nothing helps, you can’t go back, but you can’t stop. Pour the beer into a container half-and-half full of carbonated beer and try your luck at playing “black and tan” (basically, a mixture of equal parts dark and light beer*, meaning a mixture of different beers).

If your beer is over-carbonated, try to cool it. If a chilled beer has a better carbonation level, drink it cold and learn from experience.

Bruce Sasel is the owner of Stella Brew, a homebrew shop in Charlton and Marlborough, Massachusetts. He has been a brewer for several years and is also working on a book and developing a patent. This former employee of Digital Equipment Corp., a manufacturing and research engineering company, can be found at Grateful Dead shows or hanging around wherever good karma occurs.

Translation and notes: Kim Afasizhev