Installing an electricity meter in an apartment by hand. Rules for installing an electric meter in a house or country house

Self-installation of an electricity meter is carried out at any convenient place, but in strict accordance with the PUE regulations - the main document that determines the rules for installing metering devices.

Connecting an electricity meter yourself should be done according to the following recommendations.

Today the market is overflowing with electricity meters different types, differing in technical indicators and design characteristics, so it is very important to choose the right high-quality and durable metering device.

Main selection criteria:

• Operating principle and device type, according to which the meter can be induction or electronic. The first option is represented by simple electromechanical devices with a rotating metal disk. The advantages are the cost and indicators of calibration intervals. The second option is represented by devices with input signal conversion and high accuracy rates.
• Number of phases allows you to classify metering devices into single-phase and three-phase meters. In the first case, it is assumed that only single-phase electrical networks will be used. However, three single-phase electricity meters can be connected to a three-phase network, which allows metering of consumed energy separately for all phases.
• Accuracy class determines measurement error indicators, which can vary from 0.2% to 2.5%. For installation in the residential sector, the optimal error is 2.0%;
• Connection method can be direct or through transformers. Direct connection metering devices are used for loads up to 100A. If the total load level exceeds this indicator, then the connection is made only through transformers.
• Voltage class determined by the method of obtaining food. A voltage measuring transformer is used when it is necessary to take into account electricity on the high side of a 6-10 kV high-voltage line.

In accordance with the number of tariffs, all electricity meters produced by manufacturers can be single-tariff, double-tariff and multi-tariff.

Two-tariff meters allow you to pay for electricity consumption at daytime and nighttime rates. It should be noted that the payback time for such a device often exceeds five years.

Safety

When installing any metering devices yourself, all safety rules must be followed.

Installation, dismantling, replacement and standard verification of live electrical meters on live elements require special attention.

Only specialists carry out work, both in the absence and presence of live parts with voltages over 1000V.

The presence of live parts with voltages above 1000V requires the use of special mesh barriers that completely cover cells or chambers.

In the presence of relay protection cabinets located outside the mesh fence, all work is carried out only by authorized professional electrical technicians.

Tools and materials

Replacing or installing a new electric meter yourself will require the use of special tools:

• comfortable pliers with rubberized handles;
• a set of non-conductive screwdrivers;
• sharp knife for stripping insulation from wires;
• insulating materials;
• measuring multimeter.

Types of electric meters may differ in their fixation methods, so it is necessary to purchase not only wires with a certain cross-section, insulators and RCDs with circuit breakers, but also fasteners and a current transformer. Installation is carried out in the subscriber panel using mounting strips.

The method of connecting the meter depends on its type. – installation stages.

Let's look at how to take readings from the electricity meter depending on the type of device.

You can read tips on choosing an electrical box for a meter. This information will help you make your choice.

Posting rules

The installation of an electric meter in an apartment must be carried out competently. There are a number of rules that must be followed when installing electrical energy meters yourself:

• installation must be carried out in a place that allows for trouble-free inspection or maintenance of the device;
• When performing installation, the power line must be de-energized in advance;
• the electricity meter is installed at a standard distance from the floor, but the optimal height is 150-170 cm;
• A reliable safety switch must be installed in front of the electric meter.

Grounding is also mandatory, and after all installation work is completed, a trial or test connection is performed.

How to connect an electric meter correctly

Before connecting, you need to make sure that there is no voltage on the metal panel, and also record the readings of the electric meter, inspect appearance and ensure the integrity of the seals.

Let's consider in order how to connect an electricity meter, depending on the model.

Installation of a single-phase device

Independent replacement of electrical single-phase meters is carried out in the following sequence:

• inspection of the external condition of the electric meter;
• checking the integrity of all seals on the metering device and on the terminal assembly;
• short-circuit the secondary transformer winding at the current terminals;
• check the absence of current in the electrical circuit of the metering device;
• sequentially disconnecting all conductors of the voltage circuit at the terminal assembly using insulating caps;
• removing the clamping cover from the electric meter box;
• checking that there is no voltage at the terminals and loosening the contact screws;
• unscrewing fasteners and dismantling the meter;
• installation of a new meter and screwing of fasteners;
• introducing voltage and current circuit conductors into the terminals of the electric meter, as well as clamping screws;
• installation of the clamping cover and sealing.

Connection diagram for a single-phase electric meter

At the final stage, the insulating caps are alternately removed and the secondary windings on the current transformer are short-circuited.

Connecting three-phase models

When choosing the optimal circuit for connecting three-phase 380V electricity meters, you need to focus on the model of the control device. Three-phase models of metering devices also work in standard 220V electrical networks, and are connected according to the following diagrams:

• direct connection option;
• semi-indirect connection option;
• indirect connection option.

Devices for direct-flow energy metering are designed to pass current within 100A, which limits their use to a power of 60 kW. Such electric meters are distinguished by terminal contacts for connecting wires with a small cross-section.

Three-phase meter connection diagram

The simplest option is direct or direct connection. In this case, the insulation on the supply conductors is stripped and connected to the automatic protective switch, after which three phase conductors are connected to the terminal contacts. The neutral conductor is connected to a pair of remaining unused contacts.

After the metering device, it is mandatory to install three-pole circuit breakers.

The final stage

At the final stage of the process of installing an electric meter and connecting the metering device, you need to check the correctness of the work performed. The functionality of the meter and its sealing must be fully checked to prevent unauthorized withdrawal of electricity.

Effective approach

Considering constant increase electricity tariffs, experts recommend giving preference to installing two-tariff metering devices and using all powerful household appliances only at night.

Such modern electricity meters allow you to save approximately 25-30% Money on paying for electricity.

In apartment buildings, residents do not need to worry about installing electricity meters. , on the contrary, falls on the shoulders of the homeowner.

We'll tell you which box for the meter is best to choose for the street.

Cost of installing an electric meter in an apartment

In the absence of sufficient experience and confidence in the ability to correctly independently connect the metering device, it is advisable to involve qualified specialists in such work.

The price for installing electricity meters in an apartment consists of the following list of services:

• the cost of dismantling and installing a single-phase electric meter is about two thousand rubles;
• the cost of dismantling and installing a three-phase electric meter is about four thousand rubles;
• the cost of installing and replacing a current transformer is three thousand rubles;
• the cost of programming a tariff schedule is approximately a thousand rubles.

The accuracy criteria for electric meter readings directly depend on a number of external factors, including humidity parameters, temperature conditions, chemical composition air and the presence of vibrations of varying strength.

Related video

The meter should be installed in compliance with all safety rules, including fire safety.

Installation of metering devices is the responsibility of the homeowner and is carried out at his expense.

To avoid fines and problems, you need to know the basic installation requirements and do everything correctly.

Technical requirements

You should follow the basic rules for installing electricity meters:

• the device must be installed in a place that is convenient for inspection or maintenance;
• During installation, the line must be de-energized; this should be ensured in advance by agreement with company representatives;
• the counter should be at a height of 80 to 170 cm from the floor;
• it is necessary to install a safety switch before connecting to the meter, before it;
• grounding is required;
• wiring (machines) are connected to the meter;
• if the integrity of the seals on the meter is broken, you must immediately call a specialist to seal it;
• After installation is complete, a test run is performed.

Where to install

When installing the meter outside, the following technical requirements must be observed:

• usually, if there are requirements from the provider company, the device is installed on the facade of the house at a height of 70 cm to 170 cm for ease of maintenance;
• It is also practiced to install the meter at the appropriate height on a concrete pole, while it must be located on the territory of the house, and the wiring is installed in the house itself.

The question of whether the requirement to move meters outside is legal is controversial. In fact, there are no regulations regulating the location of the meter.

The energy sales company motivates this by the fact that there should be easy access to the device for control purposes. However, in this case, no one is stopping them from installing a modern electronic device with a remote monitoring function in their home at their own expense and monitoring it at their own pleasure.

At the very least, these requirements are to the detriment of home owners and create inconvenience for them:

1. When placed outside, the service life of the meter will be significantly reduced, since this device is not designed to operate in extreme conditions, in the rain, in frost, in heat. At low temperatures readings may be incorrect.
2. When installed on the street, the homeowner will have to put up with the fact that his meter has access not only to company employees, but also to everyone.
3. Sometimes, to protect the instruments, they are installed at a height of 3 meters, which, to some extent, protects them from thieves, but the homeowner himself, without a ladder, will not be able to see his readings.

In fact, by forcing citizens to install meters on the street, they are deprived of the right to take care of the safety of their property, as provided for in the Civil Code of the Russian Federation.

This is beneficial for energy companies, as having the instruments outside makes it much easier for them to inspect and test the instruments, as well as take readings of energy consumption.

But this is the external side of the problem, and the flip side is that it will be possible to control not only the readings of the device, but also the connection to the network up to the meter. That is, ultimately, to solve their pressing problems at the expense of homeowners, and on a massive scale.

Documentation

You can try to negotiate the location of the meter in advance, and if you guarantee employee access to the house to inspect and check the device, the problem will be solved. If not, then it still won’t work without a counter.

To perform the installation work, an average electrical qualification is sufficient; you can invite an electrical engineer yourself if the services of the company’s specialists are too expensive.

Specialist's note: Before starting work on installing an electric meter, you should obtain a standard agreement complete with a Certificate of Balance Sheet Separation.

This is a necessary piece of paper that clearly states who is responsible for what, what the homeowner is responsible for and costs, and what will be the responsibility of the company. This document is necessary, especially if the meter will be located on the street.

If the installation will still be on the street, it is necessary to require a clear division of responsibility, which will be reflected in the contract.

Despite the growing popularity of electronic devices, they are also selling quite well.

Compared to modern ones, they do not require expensive maintenance and are definitely more reliable.

So far they have not been surpassed in reliability and ability to work and function without breakdowns. In Europe, where most of the meters are electronic, over time, they again began to show interest in unpretentious and reliable electromechanical devices.

In any case, no matter what device is chosen, you should make sure that the seal is intact and undamaged. There is also an expiration date for fillings:

• for single-phase – 2 years
• for three-phase – 1 year.

It is recommended to install the meter as close to the entry point as possible. The meter must be located in a warm room, this can be a heated or insulated hallway, where the company employees will have easy access to the device.

If the company requires that household meters be installed on the facade of the house, if it was not possible to get the requirement lifted, you can cheat a little and place the meter where the warm terrace will subsequently be built.

You might also be interested in an article about.

Read the article on how to properly seal an electric meter.

Watch the video in which a specialist explains the requirements for installing an electricity meter in a private home, as well as general rules operation of electricity metering devices:

Many people believe that connecting an electric meter , a very complex and not simple task that only a competent, qualified electrician can do. In fact, everything is funny
easy and simple, especially if you have detailed information at hand electric meter connection diagram, with step-by-step photographs and professional comments. This article contains just such instructions, which describe in detail Electric meter connection diagram. Taking advantage of it , Connecting yourself will not pose any difficulties for you.

There are counters of various designs:

• mechanical and electronic
• one tariff and two tariffs
• direct connection and secondary (the secondary meter is connected mainly in power cabinets and switchboards, for example, at the entrance to a multi-storey building, at substations where very large currents flow, it is connected to the circuit through current transformers), only direct connection meters are used in everyday life

In this article, we will look at connecting a single-phase direct-connection electric energy meter. It should be noted that the connection diagrams for mechanical and electronic electricity meters are the same.

In our example, an electronic counter with a mechanical reading mechanism is used.

Preparatory work

Before connecting the electricity meter, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. Install a box in which all equipment will be mounted.

Most modern meters are modular. This means that they are installed on a special mounting rail, which greatly facilitates and simplifies the installation process. Also, household series of protective equipment are modular, these include:

• circuit breakers
• RCD (residual current devices)
• differential automata
• various adapter terminals and zero buses
• voltage limiters
• voltage indicators

They are installed in special boxes made of special non-flammable plastic. These boxes can be wall-mounted or built-in, and have different sizes, which depend on the number of installation spaces inside the panel.

The box used in the example is mounted, designed for 24 installation positions, has two DIN rails with 12 places each. Din rail is a metal plate on which modular equipment is mounted.

Boxing consists of two main parts:

• outer - protective cover with door
• internal, - which includes one or more din rails, their number depends on how many installation positions the box is designed for. And a zero bus, designed to distribute the supply zero between all outgoing wires.

Let's move on to preparing the box for installation. Remove the top cover. To do this, you need to unscrew the 4 screws securing the outer cover.

In front of us is the inside of the box. As you can see, it has two of the above-mentioned din rails.

And zero bus.

We mount the box on the wall. It is worth noting that according to the requirements of the PUE (electrical installation rules), the installation height of the meter indoors must correspond to certain dimensions, 0.8-1.7 meters from the floor. Such requirements are due to the fact that the inspector or sealer serving the electrical organization would have the opportunity to take meter readings without the use of stools and stepladders. The optimal installation height is the height of the average person's eye level, 1.6-1.7 meters.

IN depending on the wall material,We use the necessary fasteners, concrete dowels or wood screws.

And so, the box is installed. We proceed to the installation of modular equipment.

Installation of an electric meter and modular equipment

According to the PUE, a protective disconnecting device must be installed in front of the metering device (electricity meter). As a rule, in most cases, such a device is a two-pole circuit breaker. In the meter connection diagram, it performs the following functions:

1. Electric meter protection

• from short circuit,
• from fire due to exceeding the permissible load for which the meter is designed,
• ability to perform meter replacement and maintenance work

2. Limitation of permitted power (regulated by the rating of the circuit breaker)

If necessary, you can read about in more detail.

In our example, the input protective device will be installed directly in the apartment panel, box. Also, in some cases, it can be installed in the floor panel, on the landing. Here, the main criterion is the method and possibility of filling.

Everything in the box must be sealed. If the service organization has the ability to seal the circuit breaker, then it is mounted in a box; if not, then in a floor panel. The machine is sealed with special stickers that are glued to the contact screws, top and bottom of the circuit breaker.The meter is sealed with plastic or lead seals.

Well, we've sorted out the sealing, let's get back to installing the electric meter.

Let's start with the installation of an input two-pole circuit breaker. Using a special latch located on the back wall of the machine, we install it on the upper DIN rail.

Who today can imagine existence in modern world without electricity? Few people, in fact. The electricity consumed by each must be measured. Therefore, you need to install a device that will help with this.

Which counter to install

There are electronic and induction meters; this division is based on functional principle. not so durable and accurate, so more and more consumers are replacing them with electronic ones.

There are also classifications that are based on the accuracy of the devices and the rated current. When the error is smaller, the measurement is more accurate. Meters with a rated voltage of 0.4 kV are usually chosen for country houses where there is no powerful equipment.

Electricity meter in a private home: what you need to consider when installing

An electrical installer with average qualifications can install the device. But there are installation rules and a number of documents that you need to acquire before this. A standard contract, for example, needs to be requested from the network provider; you also need a work assignment, which will contain an act of division of balance sheet ownership. This package of papers contains the requirements that the consumer must comply with in order for his home to be connected to the power grid. In addition, the documents differentiate the responsibilities of the home owner and the electricity supplier. It is precisely in this regard that it is recommended to install the electricity device inside the house in a heated distribution panel.

Installation of an electricity meter: list of requirements

It is best to install the device in a dressing room or hallway, so that in case of inspection or work with it there is access.

The input line must be de-energized in advance. This is done in agreement with the company’s electricians or network provider.

An interval of 0.8 - 1.7 m is the optimal height if a mounted installation of an electricity meter is performed. The device is mounted horizontally on the surface.

First, the incoming electrical circuit must be connected to the circuit breaker, and then to the meter itself.

All electronics in the building must be secured. For this there must be a protective ground. If a phase imbalance occurs or it will be protection.

The general wiring for the whole house (usually a panel with automatic switches) is connected to the meter output.

If the consumer sees that the integrity of the seal has been compromised, an urgent need to call a representative of the network provider to reseal the meter.

The requirements of the PUE during installation must be adhered to.

It is important to do a test run.

Electricity meter in an apartment: what you need to take into account during installation

The rules for installing an electricity meter (PUE) contain all the important aspects; based on them, representatives of the network company install devices in apartments.

Finding out the date is the first thing you need to do before you start installation. It should be on the seal. For 3-phase meters, the statute of limitations should not exceed one year, for single-phase meters - two.

Before connecting, contaminated Vaseline must be removed from the conductor and immediately reapply a thin layer of Vaseline. The screws are tightened in two steps. The first one is tightened without jerking with the greatest permissible force, then the tightening is not completely, but is greatly weakened, then the secondary one is with normal force. This is how the electricity meter is installed. The price that representatives of the service organization will ask you for in case of self-installation will consist only of the service for sealing the device.

The electrical meter terminal box, adapter box or test block must be subject to the sealing process. The voltage transformer chamber, as well as the disconnector drive handle, and again the clamp assembly are sealed if the meter was installed at a consumer substation.

Good afternoon, dear guests and regular readers of the Electrician's Notes website.

Today I will tell you how to properly install and install an electric meter.

The installation of an electric meter is carried out in accordance with the requirements of the regulatory document, in accordance with the section on electricity metering.

1. Room

Electric energy meters must be installed in dry rooms and they must be located in convenient and accessible places for their maintenance. The temperature in such rooms should not be below 0°C and above 40°C.

If the temperature regime is difficult to organize, then it is necessary to provide insulation in the winter, for example, install it in an insulated cabinet with the possibility of heating.

2. Installation location

Electricity meters are allowed to be installed in the following places:

• on the wall
• on panels and metering boards
• in closets
• in the relay compartments of the switchgear (complete switchgear)

3. Fastening

Electricity meters can be mounted:

• on metal shields
• in plastic shields and boxes (an example of installing a meter in an apartment)
• on wooden panels

4. Height

Installation and installation of electricity meters is carried out at a height of 800-1700 mm from the floor level, and also preferably at human eye level - for ease of maintenance and taking readings. This is strong evidence that we are at an unattainable height. Read more about this here.

5. Tilt angle

Induction electricity meters must be installed with an inclination angle of no more than 1°C. If this condition is not met, an additional error will occur.

6. Overall dimensions of cabinets, niches and panels

The most important condition for the overall dimensions of cabinets, niches and panels for installing electricity meters:

• easy and convenient access to the electricity meter terminals and (if any)
• convenient opportunity for

7. Connecting wires to the electricity meter

When connecting wires to the electricity meter, the following conditions must be observed:

• strip wires with a length of at least 12 (mm)

8. Switching devices

To quickly and safely replace electric meters with voltages up to 0.4 (kV), it is necessary to install a switching device (circuit breaker, fuses) in front of them at a distance of no more than 10 meters. More details about this.

Most often, the energy supply organization sees a method of theft or deception in installing a circuit breaker in front of the meter. Therefore, I recommend placing the circuit breaker in advance in a special plastic box that has an “eye” for sealing it.

P.S. Be sure to read my article about problems with the energy supply organization -

81 comments on the entry “How to install an electric meter correctly”

Now I will know how to install and install an electric meter. Thank you for the useful and detailed information.

Your site is a must-read for every man.

Ha ha ha funny video

The site is just a godsend for men

Regarding the eighth point, I would also like to add that this is a requirement of the PUE, which the power supply organization does not want to comply with in most cases, you wrote about the reason correctly.

Is it possible to cover a counter mounted on a metal panel on the wall with a chipboard cabinet with an MDF door? Will this be a violation?

Can. But why don't you put it in a plastic box, it will be aesthetically pleasing.

The meter is not installed correctly; according to the PUE, it is necessary to install test blocks or boxes of the KIU3 type to allow safe servicing, because CT secondary circuits cannot be opened; in this case, the package circuit breaker does not provide safety (the box will cost less and the “electricians” will not find fault, there are requirements for the need to seal the metering circuits)! Also, according to the PUE, the installation height of the meter is from 0.8 to 1.7 meters, but is allowed from 0.4 m. When connecting 3-phase meters, it is necessary to observe the phase rotation, as well as the polarity of the secondary winding of current transformers (CTs), it is necessary to leave a reserve wires at least 5 cm. Stripping of the conductor should be carried out depending on the size of the terminal block of the meter, so that the insulation does not get under the clamps and the bare wire does not come out from under the terminal block cover. Modern microprocessor meters display the correctness of phase rotation and, moreover, practically do not change their error when it changes, but legally the energy supply organization will be right if it indicates an incorrect connection diagram. There are also bags with special caps that allow you to seal contacts. Installing the meter is easy, but you need to carefully study all the nuances.

Andrey, you probably haven’t read my articles: and about .

In this article, the counter is installed correctly. The inspector checked everything and put seals on it. Have you ever seen that in a residential private house the meter was installed through a terminal block?

Help me decide the “correct” height for installing a matrix meter on a street pole. The meter is installed outside normal reach, and the power grid obliges!!! use a stepladder to take readings. Requests and complaints about reinstalling the meter below are not responded to.

thank you, the article is useful. The question is that the meter is already installed at a height of 2.2 meters and they refuse to transfer it, what should I do?

Everything is fine, understandable, but the question is a little off topic. LENELEKTRO meter - what kind of alarm is in it, a red diode blinks under load, next to the arrow there is something like a diode. What is their role and what are they “talking about”?

Sergey, a red LED indicates the presence of current in the circuit, i.e. The greater the load consumed, the more frequently it blinks.

I had a toilet counter installed in my store. During the repair, I completely replaced the wiring and after re-sealing, the electrical network workers gave me an act to move the meter to another location. I refused the transfer. This room is not particularly damp. And before I purchased this store, the counter was there and no one cared about it. Are the actions of the electrical workers correct?

Sergey, what is written in the act - what is the reason for the transfer.

Hello! Extremely useful site, thank you very much to the admin!!! Actually, my question is, does an energy-saving company have the right (legally) to refuse to commission the meter for me? (I’m going to install the meter myself). I don’t have permission. The building is an apartment building. P.S. I have been working in construction for 20 years, during which time I have mastered several related professions. I always do electrical work, plumbing, and much more at my sites, but I have never been refused commissioning. Thank you.

Tell me, the specifications were issued for 10 kW (but this is not enough for the present time), the system is three-phase, connect 4 4x16 SIPs. I want to install the meter immediately at 100A (so that there is a reserve), which machine before the meter and after (so that there is a reserve, because there is no power limiter. What if the real consumption will be more than 10 kW). The energy supply organization may prohibit installing the meter and machines at higher power. what is written in the technical specifications for joining.
Thank you

Vladimir, the nominal value of the input machine must be indicated in the technical specifications. For a 10 (kW) three-phase load this is 16 (A). The meter can be set to 100 (A) - there are no restrictions on this.

Dmitry, tell me this. As a supervisory organization, it will be able to control me if I install an electricity meter in my apartment, even though the input cable from the landing will run in my apartment at least 4 meters to the meter being installed. In other words, can I hide this cable in the wall or should it be visible along its entire length (to control unauthorized connections)?

In order to protect assemblies from theft of electricity, it is not necessary to install circuit breakers in boxes; it is enough to install plug seals on the screws of circuit breakers; fortunately, they are now available for all types of modern machines.

Alas, as the Consultant says, Resolution 530 has lost its force.

And the question is interesting. The meter is located on the staircase; I have not registered ownership of it in any way, but, according to the electric company, I am obliged to replace it at my own expense. There are a number of vague “legal acts”. Here, for example, are a couple. Civil Code, Article 543 clause 2: 2. In the case where the subscriber under an energy supply contract is a citizen who uses energy for domestic consumption, the obligation to ensure the proper technical condition and safety of energy networks, as well as energy consumption metering devices, rests with the energy supply organization....
Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation of August 13, 2006 N 491, appendix, clause 7: “The composition of the common property includes an intra-house power supply system, consisting of ... to individual, common (apartment) electricity meters, as well as other electrical equipment located on these networks."
From the latter it follows that the meter installed on the stairs is a consumer

In November 2014 I decided to change the wiring in a private house. At the same time, I replaced the electric meter. On November 26, 2014, I wrote an application to have the seal removed. On November 27, 2014, he removed the old one and installed a new meter in the same place, and immediately reported this. Then I went three more times and demanded that they put a seal and register the meter. On December 26, 2014 (a month later) they finally came to put a filling. They immediately stated that they refused to seal it because the meter was located at a height of more than 170 cm from the floor and drove away. I tried it on. Yes, height 195cm. But the old meter stood at the same height for about 15 years and there were no complaints. It suits me, it’s convenient for me. Am I going to have to redo everything?

Apparently it will have to be installed no more than 1.7 m

Good article

Why does MESK require the installation of Matrix meters, but I want to install Mercury, it is cheaper, and they threaten not to issue a certificate of restrictions?!!!

Hello, are there any regulations for installing a meter on the street if there is a gas pipe nearby? There is no way to put it on a wall where there is no pipe! Thank you in advance!

Victor, good afternoon. According to the PUE, clause 7.1.50, the minimum distance from switches, plug sockets and electrical installation elements (this includes the electric meter) to gas pipelines must be at least 0.5 (m). Thus, it is allowed to install a meter on this wall, where your pipe runs, but only on the condition that there is at least half a meter from the pipe to the meter.

Hello! Our company is engaged in the installation and sealing of meters for the population in apartment buildings. Now the question has arisen again about allowing our electricians to carry out work.
On the one hand, these are networks that are serviced by REU, and we need to write them a letter to gain access to our people. But on the other hand, there is paragraph 7 of Resolution 491 which states: “The composition of the common property includes the in-house power supply system up to individual, common (apartment) electrical energy metering devices.” That is, it turns out that the meter is no longer a property serviced by the REU and you can use it without permission from them.
Please tell me which way to go? Or are there any other regulatory documents on this issue?

Good afternoon I want to install a counter in the toilet. Is it possible or not?

Maria, you can, but if the relative humidity in the toilet is no more than 60%.

PUE, clause 1.5.27. Meters should be located in dry rooms that are easily accessible for maintenance, in a place that is sufficiently free and not cramped for work...

Please help. Now an electrician from the management company came to seal my meter at my request. On October 19, I submitted another application on my own along with the claim, and so they spent 4 days thinking about what to do and decided to start a war with me. The electrician measured at what height the meter hangs and issued an order to hang it low, they indicated in the order based on Chapter 1.5 of PUE-7, the order indicated that an unsealed meter gives them the right to disconnect me from the network. I don’t find such a chapter, because I have some kind of incomplete version of PUE-7, but as far as I know that height is recommended and not a strictly mandatory requirement, I can see the readings even without a chair. The electrician says that since I am so competent and the first to start, they will also resist. They just resist strangely, I immediately told him that where my meter hangs, that’s where it will hang and I won’t change anything. I submitted my application on the 19th, they were supposed to arrive within 3 days, I didn’t sign anything, so legally no one came to me if anything. If anyone knows, please provide a link to the rules to clarify whether I have to redo the meter or is it recommended there? And in general, as you would advise, my corridor is narrow and if I hang the meter at eye height, it will interfere purely physically, even furniture cannot be brought in.

Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation dated 04.05.2012 N 442
(as amended on 09/04/2015)

144. Metering devices must be installed at the boundaries of the balance sheet of electric power facilities (power receiving devices) of adjacent entities of the retail market - consumers, producers of electrical energy (power) in retail markets, grid organizations that have a common boundary of balance sheet (hereinafter referred to as adjacent entities of the retail market), as well as in other places determined in accordance with this section in compliance with the requirements established by law Russian Federation requirements for installation locations of metering devices. If there is no technical possibility of installing a metering device at the border of the balance sheet of electric power facilities (power receiving devices) of adjacent entities of the retail market, the meter must be installed in a place as close as possible to the border of the balance sheet where it is technically possible to install it. At the same time, by agreement between adjacent entities of the retail market, a metering device to be used to determine the volume of consumption (production, transmission) of electrical energy of one entity can be installed within the boundaries of electric power facilities (power receiving devices) of another adjacent entity.

Hello!
I ask for help, I am completely confused in the mutually exclusive recommendations of “experts”.
I have a double entrance to the house:
first: 3-phase and 4 wires of 25 sq. mm (SIP); second: 1-ph and 2 wires of 10 sq. mm (copper).
Inputs from different substations. Separate grounding has been performed.
I am concerned about the correct installation of a metering unit, consisting of two electricity meters: 1- and 3-phase. Where to combine zeros: before or after counters? How to eliminate double counting or, conversely, its absence? Will RCDs work on each of the four available phases? And what to do with grounding to make it the most reliable?
After the metering unit, it is planned to install an automatic transfer switch based on PF-60A for each phase - this seems to be the simplest option.
How can you avoid messing up with all this?
Sincerely, Vladimir.

But what should I do if I have a soldering box in front of the electrical cabinet with packets and a meter, and there are input wires on nuts, how can I seal it all?

Igor, this is not your problem, but a problem of the power grids. And it is easy to seal - the whole box as a whole, for example, using the same paper seals.

single-phase metering for a private house, which machine to install before the metering device - one- or two-pole, is there any kind of regulation for this? I would like to know the section and paragraph of the PUE to speak to the controller

When installing an electric meter on a private house, should the meter be immediately sealed or what?

When should the filling be placed? when installing the meter?

Darima, after installing the meter, invite an inspector. He will check the connection diagram, draw up a report () and install a seal.

I changed the electric meter in a private house. The electricians don’t want to seal it until I put the meter in a box. The electric meter is located indoors. Are there any instructions on this matter?

Yuri.
According to GOST R 51732-2001 “Input and distribution devices for residential and public buildings. General technical conditions"
- concept of ASU: Low voltage electrical device containing equipment that provides the ability to input, distribute and account for electricity, as well as control and protect outgoing distribution and group electrical circuits in residential and public buildings, which is located in the form of appropriate functional blocks in one or more connected between each other (mechanically and electrically) panels or in one cabinet, depending on the type of building according to 3.2
And according to the PUE, if the input distribution device is not located in a separate electrical room, then it must have protection not lower than IP31, that is, the equipment must be covered on all sides with a casing, and the casing should not be made of wood, but should ensure that fire does not spread through to the same GOST - either from steel or from special plastic with an appropriate certificate for fire resistance.
So at the electricity input there must be a box or panel installed in which the input and distribution switches, an electric meter and something else like a 300 mA RCD (mandatory according to fire safety regulations) and a surge suppressor (required for air input according to the norms) are installed together. PUE).
Thus, although the electrical network specialist was unable to substantiate his demands, he is right... It seems so to me.
Another thing is whether replacing the electric meter is the basis for changing third-party equipment.
There are no strict requirements and phrases in regulatory documents or in the same PUE that the meter must be in a closed casing when replacing it or even installing it. This is the situation today.

Good afternoon.

I have a couple of questions.

1. It's time to change the old meter in the apartment. The house is old with high ceilings. Elektposhit stands under the ceiling. Previously, we entered the readings ourselves and climbed there ourselves using an existing stepladder. Then energy sales workers began to climb. They had no complaints about installing the old meter. And now it needs to be changed and, according to the rules, set much lower. But it doesn’t work lower; there’s a closet underneath. And on the side of the closet there are doorways. That is, it is impossible to lower the counter there. And moving it to the side turns out to be too far. Is it possible for me, in principle, to install a new meter in the old place, if there is a stepladder in the apartment to access it?
2. Along with the meter, I will also install a new electrical panel. In a small box, under sealing, there will be an input machine. And in a large plastic box there will be a counter and machines. Meter on DIN rail Neva 103/5. Will there be any quibbles in the sense that the meter seals (after sealing) will be covered by the front panel of the box and are inaccessible for control when readings are taken by energy sales employees? Maybe it's worth making holes in the box panel so that the seals are visible?

Hello!
In the question dated 07/01/15: “Hello, are there standards for installing a meter on the street if there is a gas pipe nearby? There is no way to put it on a wall where there is no pipe! Thank you in advance!"
You answered: “According to the PUE, clause 7.1.50, the minimum distance from switches, plug sockets and electrical installation elements (this includes the electric meter) to gas pipelines must be at least 0.5 (m). Thus, it is allowed to install a meter on this wall, where your pipe runs, but only on the condition that there is at least half a meter from the pipe to the meter.”
I am interested in the following: a gas meter is installed on the street wall of a private house (on the corner of the house). But there is already an electrical supply to the house (an electrical meter and a 2-phase circuit breaker are installed on the wall and all this is in a special plastic box) from the corner of the house to the electrical structure 80 cm.
When installing a gas meter, Gorgaz says “you can’t get too close, the electricians will scold you”...

There is a point: “7.1.28. VU, ASU, main switchboard, as a rule, should be installed in electrical switchboard rooms accessible only to maintenance personnel. In areas prone to flooding, they should be installed above the flood level.
……

When placing VU, ASU, main switchboards, distribution points and group panels outside electrical switchboard rooms, they must be installed in places convenient and accessible for maintenance, in cabinets with a shell protection degree of at least IP31.

The distance from pipelines (water supply, heating, sewerage, internal drains), gas pipelines and gas meters to the installation site must be at least 1 m.” the same document.

So which point should I focus on??????
I want both meters to be on the same wall, starting from the street of the house.

Good afternoon
I agreed with the RES to leave my meter in the house, but now they require VISIBLE wires to be installed to the meter, so that, according to them, I would not be able to steal electricity. In response to my question about the legality of this requirement, they sent me to read the PUE. I am reading the PUE ... If there are such requirements?

Thanks in advance!

Valery, since the times of the USSR, the same letters have always been read differently, but with different sides. Especially officials. Obviously, they already have the PUE not of the 7th, but of the 17th edition.

I'll go to the chief engineer of the RES again one of these days. I’ll ask a question: on the basis of what specific clause of the PUE do they require the installation of OPEN wiring to the meter. I'll write about the results.

We were transferred to another energy company and they gave us an order to replace the meter, it is located on the street, but they refused to replace it themselves! As a result, the meter hangs on the wires in the box, it was sealed! Now he gives out 1000 sq. more per month than he has, but I can't achieve anything! Previously I paid for 300 kW, but now for 1300-1500, although energy consumption is maximum 250-300 kW. I don’t know what to do next and how to deal with it!

Hello. I live in a five-story apartment building. I want to change the input to the apartment (from the switchboard, I live on the 1st floor), install three phases and install a three-phase meter. Will they take him into account? or do you need to fulfill some additional requirements?
nia?

Sergey, in order to switch from single-phase input to three-phase, and accordingly, register three-phase metering in the apartment, you first need to submit an application and obtain permission. The fact is that the house power supply project does not provide for powering the apartments from a three-phase 380 (V) network, with the exception of residential buildings with luxury apartments. But if internal networks allow you to increase power consumption, then you will be given permission without any problems and will be given specifications that must be fulfilled. But the question is different?! Why do you need three-phase input in your apartment? Is there not enough power from one phase or are there three-phase consumers?!

Good afternoon, we bought a house in the village (the electric meter is old inside the house) and began to re-register the documents in our name, and Energosbyt set a condition: to place the meter on a street lighting pole in the yard. Is it possible for us to simply replace the old meter with a new one, but without taking it outside. Energosbyt engineers claim that without this we will not be able to re-issue the documents. Thanks in advance.

Good afternoon, I’m dealing with the redevelopment of an apartment here, I talked with the PIB engineer, and among other things, she gave the following: your meter is not installed correctly, it is on the outside wall of the bathroom, in an iron cabinet..
You write that it cannot be installed in wet rooms, but she claims that it can also be installed on the outer walls of these rooms. Tell me, is this true, and where is it written in the regulations?

Ilya, there are no prohibitions on installing meters on the outer wall of a bathroom in the Rules. It is prohibited only in the bathroom itself to install switchgear and control devices (PUE, clause 7.1.52), distribution boxes, as well as sockets and switches (PUE, clause 7.1.48) at a distance closer than 60 (cm) from the door opening of a shower stall or faucet. There are no prohibitions on the outer wall, especially if the meter is installed in a panel. By the way, what is the level of protection of the shield? What kind of design, external or internal? Next time, don’t get lost and ask the engineer which point of the Rules she refers to, let him indicate a specific point.

the cheapest metal hanging box, screwed with self-tapping screws to the wall through the holes inside without any gaskets, in theory, if water runs along the wall, it may well get into the panel.
The engineer is somehow having a hard time with specific documents...

I saw somewhere on the Internet that you can’t install it in rooms located under bathrooms and toilet units, maybe this plays a role, the neighbors have the same toilet unit, and if mine doesn’t leak, then their water flows just like this the wall might go

Ilya, here is the excerpt you mean. PUE, clause 7.1.29. Electrical switchboard rooms, as well as VU, ASU, main switchboards, are not allowed to be located under toilets, bathrooms, showers, kitchens (except for apartment kitchens), sinks, washing and steam rooms of bathhouses and other rooms associated with wet technological processes, except in cases where Special measures have been taken for reliable waterproofing to prevent moisture from entering the premises where the switchgear is installed.

Here we are talking about electrical switchboard rooms, input switchboards (IDUs) and main distribution boards (MSB), and not about distribution and group switchboards. And if we judge this way, then flooding may occur not only along the adjacent wall of the bathroom. In general, of course, it’s up to you to decide, but I answered your question. There is no explicit prohibition on installing an apartment panel on the bathroom wall. I’ll also add from my practice, in many new buildings where we carried out commissioning, apartment panels were installed precisely on the wall with the bathroom, and this was officially approved by the project and the relevant regulatory authorities.

Good afternoon 1.5 years ago, the Energy Management Company installed an electric meter at its own expense and assured that it was a 1-tariff meter, without providing the meter’s passport. When submitting an application for the installation of a 2-tariff meter / purchased by me /, the company notifies me that the meter, The one they previously installed is a 2-tariff one and they are ready to transfer it to 2 tariffs. Can I insist on installing my new meter and how to do it, because... I incurred certain costs for the purchase of a meter and there is a suspicion that the meter is not working correctly / after installing their meter, large bills come /

How and with what did you establish that the SE is not working correctly? BEFORE this, what kind of SE did you have, with a wheel?

Good day!
They ordered me to change the electric meter (it worked for 15 years), with mandatory installation on the street.
I purchased the meter in a store with a passport, which has a factory verification stamp.
It was confiscated from me, supposedly for additional verification.
A week passed and the meter was returned.
I installed the meter myself, since I have some knowledge in electrical engineering.
The old meter has not been removed, it is sealed and is in the house.
I wrote an application to seal a new meter and received an answer that checking the correct installation of a new electric meter is a paid service and only after payment they will come, check and seal it.
Is it legal?
By the way, since I now have both electric meters working, I recorded the readings of both and came to the conclusion that the new meter counts 1 kW more in 24 hours. It turns out that 365 kW per year will have to be paid extra....

If only you could write at least a word about the full name of the new and old SE.
You never know what and where you purchased, what is the MPI of this SE? Guess?

Hello. Please explain about mounting electric meters on wooden panels. Does this mean that meters can be installed on removable chipboard panels that cover the electrical shaft in an apartment building on the staircase.

Vitaly, according to the PUE, it is possible. But, according to common sense, I would not recommend it! It is better to use plastic, metal or other non-flammable materials.

This fluff is chipboard, not for such use. If that’s what you want, then I’d take bakelite plywood - it’s durable, doesn’t rot, isn’t afraid of moisture, absorbs very little of it, and doesn’t just burn. And the view is decent.

Thanks for the answer about removable panels. But this means that the rules allow meters to be mounted on doors.

Well, why distort? Removable does not mean anything except that they are not a monolithic fragment of a wall, but a kind of built-in/removable/replaceable structural element.
Any wall-mounted or built-in wall panel/box/cabinet is also replaceable/replaceable, or is it comparable to a window?

I'm talking about the cover that covers the electric riser. shaft, and not just about some decorative/built-in/removable/replaceable structural element.” This cover, along the edges, is attached to the wall. Unscrew the fasteners and take the meter away.
And yet, I have never seen a meter on the electric cover. panel or cabinet with el. equipment.

This is your first message about the lid, you should have written like that right away.

Dear Admin! Today a conflict arose with local distribution zones - they were replacing a PU in a 0.4 kV cell of a Soviet-era street transformer 10/0.4 kV - 400 kVA. The metering inspector arrived and stated that the control panel needed to be taken outside, saying that the transformer substation was a 10 kV electrical installation and should not have meters in it. Frankly speaking, I sent him to hell...!
...retraining. After all, nowhere, as far as I remember, does it say that it is impossible to install PUs in cells of 0.4 kV transformer substations. I'm right?

Hello, can you tell me about an old private house and a meter on the wall inside, the wires to the meter are laid in the wall, is it necessary to lay the wires to the meter openly (like it’s clear that we’re not stealing) and are there pue points about this?

What do they demand?

Hello. We live in SNT. We recently completely changed the wiring in the house to hidden, and installed a new meter in the old place. The main cable runs, as before the replacement, from the attic through a hole in the ceiling via the shortest route directly into a box no more than 3 meters long. Our local electrician refused to seal the meter, arguing that the cable should go outside around the perimeter of the house and enter through a hole in the street wall, openly going down to the box. Taking into account these requirements, this means that instead of 3 meters, it will be necessary to pull all 10, and drill a wall at least 40 cm thick. The electrician himself admits that most of the houses are sealed without taking these requirements into account. Are his claims legitimate or can they be challenged?

Argue if it helps. SNT has its own rules, with whom will you argue?

To begin with, I would like to ask you to familiarize yourself with the official decision of SNT on the standards for installing electricity, if there is one. When they came to remove the old meter, they verbally warned that there were restrictions of 20 amperes, not a word about the cable on the street. This issue was not raised at the meetings either. The meter at my parents’ house was sealed a year ago, no problem. Now the electrician has changed, and with him new rules. It’s true that it’s not yet clear who wrote them...

Oh, mom, it seems you don’t understand the difference between the terms OFFICIAL and SNT DECISION. Well, it turned out that we agreed, decided and bypassed your notorious “official” decision, it happens.
And in conclusion - if it’s OFFICIAL, then... It’s true that it’s not yet clear who wrote it... how to understand it?
All these local issues are decided according to the place where they appear; what kind of officialdom are we talking about? Even the court will not consider this. Believe me.

Yes, you are right, I don’t understand either the difference or the logic. There is a solution to why they weren’t familiarized with it; there’s no such thing, which means they have to seal it.
Thanks for the advice.

Sorry, but your questions go beyond electrics! Well, who is to blame that you were not allowed to read the decision of the meeting, the SNT council, against receipt, why didn’t you ask? Why your neighbor has this, but they demand something different from you, also does not apply to electricians.

The time has come to replace the MPI meter in a private house in a village in the Moscow region. I calculated the maximum load with all devices turned on, it is 7.2 kW. I want to install a 32 A input machine to the meter, since the village is not gasified and I cook food on an electric stove. But the Mosenergosbyt electrician wants to install a machine with only 25 A, that is, a total power of 5 kW. In the village, the power lines and general equipment have been modernized and new ones have been installed. There is no contract for the maximum power supply to my house, since the old meter is 40 years old.
Please tell me which document describes these norms. I want to install a single-phase multi-tariff meter.

This is all up to local service providers. They give you 25 - take it, they often limit it to 16 amperes.
Just because you counted 7 kW does not mean that all of this is turned on at the same time.
Considering the look of your ancient wiring in the photo, it’s not worth talking about 25 amperes.