A simple homemade utilitarian frame for special glasses. Stylish glasses made of wood with your own hands How to make a lorgnette from ordinary glasses

Are you experiencing vision problems? Fragile frames often break, and it’s not always possible to buy a suitable new one? Are you ready to try your hand at doing it yourself? We'll show you how to do it.

Before you start work, you need to think through everything thoroughly and prepare. No soldering or complicated tools are needed. To get started you will need:

• a sheet of thick paper;
• pencil;
• stationery scissors;
• ruler;
• scotch;
• metal scissors;
• three coils of wire of different thicknesses: 1.2 mm, 0.8 mm, 0.3 mm (0.2 mm).

Sketch of glasses shape, decor

Appearance glasses and their finishes should first be drawn on paper in accordance with the required size. You can choose a suitable template on the Internet.

Advice! The easiest way is to bend the parts along the frame of the finished glasses. To avoid scratching the lenses, they are protected by gluing pieces of tape.

The main thing is to think through the decorative treatment down to the smallest detail, because in addition to external beauty, its main function is to strengthen the entire structure

Stages of work

The design of the frame depends entirely on the creative eye of the artist. So what's up:

1. Glass frames are formed from wire of the largest diameter and connected along the bridge of the nose with a regular figure-of-eight weave.

2. To hold volumetric lenses in them, a duplicate layer of the thinnest metal thread is attached from the inside in the same way.

• bend a couple of curls: a large one on the outer element, a compact one on the inner one, separate the filigree from the middle and hide the end of the wire under the large curl, securing it to the base with a pair of wire turns;
• the internal element is completed with a curl that will hide the free end of the filigree;
• the wire thread that goes around the outer edge is bent inward for subsequent shaping of the nasal “pads.”

4. Inside the frame Using the same “figure eight”, a looped part is attached to support the glass from the corners and in the middle part of the top. For the loops of the arms, the metal rods of the upper and lower bases are bent, braiding them with decor in the form of a figure eight.

5. To decorate the top of the frame and strengthening the loops, 0.8 mm wire is suitable. The pattern is determined according to personal preference and taste.

6. For making bows:

• measure their length and add 5 cm;
• a decorative element is placed in the middle to prevent them from bending outward.

7. Fasten both arms and decorate them.

Glasses is an optical device used for optical correction of human vision in case it deviates from the norm and protects the eyes from dangerous external influences.

Repairing glasses requires a tool that rarely anyone has at hand. If you do not have the opportunity to repair your glasses yourself, you can contact professionals who will repair them, and if repair is impossible, they will help you choose new ones.

If the screw for fastening the glass or in the hinge for fastening the temple (arm) is simply unscrewed, then even a child can handle such a repair; just take a watch screwdriver or a knife with a sharp end and tighten the screw, without applying more force, until it stops.

But if the frame of the glasses breaks at the place of the nose, or the temple breaks off at the hinge, then such a breakdown of the glasses is no longer easy to fix; repairs require tools and knowledge of technology.

In modern glasses, the temples are often attached to the hinges using flex. This mechanism is a spring that fixes the temple (arm) in a given position and allows the temples to move apart, in contrast to the standard 100˚ angle of ordinary glasses, by an angle of up to 160˚.

Frames with flexes eliminate pressure on the head when wearing glasses and distortion of the frame when removing glasses with one hand, so glasses with flexes last longer and are more comfortable to wear. But the more complex the glasses are, the more likely they are to break.

How to tighten a screw
in the hinge for fastening glasses frames with flexes

If it is not difficult to screw in a loose screw in the fastening hinge of simple glasses, then in glasses equipped with flexes it is not as simple a task as it seems at first glance. When attaching the temple, the screw passes through the movable flex bar, and if the screw is unscrewed, the flex bar is pulled into the cavity of the temple and the mounting hole in the frame does not coincide with the hole on the temple. It is impossible to tighten the screw.

When analyzing the breakdown, everything became clear; you need to pull out the flex bar and screw the screw into place. The bar can be easily pulled out using an awl or a needle if you thread it through the hole for the screw, but then there is nowhere to screw the screw. Otherwise, it seems like there’s nothing to grab onto. But if you look closely, it turns out that there is a ledge in the bar protruding from the temple, beyond which it can be pulled out. Only the problem of a lack of hands arises. A vice can serve as a third hand.

The temple is clamped into the jaws of a vice; if the material from which the temple is made is soft, then you need to place a piece of leather between the jaws of the vice. But even with the help of a vice, screwing a screw into the frame of glasses is not easy, since you have to hold the base of the frame with one hand and at the same time, with the same hand, use a small screwdriver to move the flex bar up so that the holes coincide. With your second hand you need to insert a screw into the aligned holes and screw it in. I only succeeded after a few tries.

The native screw was lost, and I had to screw in a suitable diameter, came up from a broken calculator. Before assembling the glasses, you must first tighten the new screw with force, thereby cutting a new thread. In order for the screw to no longer unscrew, I riveted it a little, from the side of its exit from the spectacle frame.

If a suitable screw could not be found, it can be replaced with a brass or steel rod of a suitable diameter, for fixing, by riveting its ends, as described below.

Repair of flex glasses frames with flex

I got glasses for repair, the temple (arm) in which broke off at the place where the hinge was attached to the flex.

The load on the junction of the temple with the flex is large and repairing glasses with superglue or epoxy resin would not provide a reliable connection. The only option left was the mechanical repair method.

At the end of the temple of the glasses there was a hole with a rectangular groove, and the counter part of the part, which went into this hole and was fixed in the hinge of the frame, was a narrow flat steel strip about 1 mm thick. The only possible reliable method of repair was to connect the parts using a rivet.

There are no industrially manufactured rivets for such minor repairs. But a brass sewing pin with a metal head 0.7 mm in diameter worked well as a rivet. The size of the pin determined the diameter of the holes that needed to be drilled in the parts to be joined.

Before drilling, you need to make markings. The first hole must be drilled in the ear (shackle), at a point from the calculation so that it passes through the center of the strip fixed in the hinge of the frame.

To do this, the earhook needs to be clamped in a vice. Between the jaws of the vise, so as not to damage the coating of the temples, lay pieces of leather and apply a drilling point with a core.

Next, you need to drill a hole in the earhook. It is difficult to drill a hole with a diameter of 0.7 mm with a powerful household drill without breaking the drill, since it is impossible to feel the pressure on the drill due to the larger mass of the drill and this will lead to inevitable breakage of the drill. For such work, a miniature drill is needed, for example, as in a homemade mini drilling machine.

You also need to drill a hole in the flat plate that secures the temple to the frame hinge. Before drilling, you need to mark the drilling point. To do this, the plate is inserted all the way into the groove of the temple located at its end and in this form the assembly is clamped in a vice lined with leather. The temple of the glasses should take a position relative to the frame that corresponds to the glasses being worn on the person’s head.

The hole previously drilled in the temple will serve as a conductor; inserting a drill into it will drill a hole in the plate. You need to drill very carefully, using little force, as the drill can easily be broken.

The holes are drilled, and you can begin the final stage of repairing the glasses, connecting with rivets. The flat plate is inserted all the way into the groove of the temple, and the pin is threaded through the holes.

Using pliers, the pin on the opposite side of the head is shortened so that the protruding part is 0.2-0.3 mm high.

To complete the repair, all that remains is to flare the protruding part of the pin using a small hammer. To do this, you need to press the round head of the pin against the anvil and with light blows, changing the angle, flatten the part of the pin protruding above the temple.

If there is no small hammer, then you can flare the pin with a large hammer, striking weakly on the protrusion of the pin through the metal rod.

As you can see, the repair of the glasses is completed, the connection between the temples and the base with a rivet turned out to be neat and did not spoil the aesthetic appearance of the glasses.

While I was repairing the glasses, fitting one temple into place, the second one broke on the glasses. I had to repair it using the technology described above. Now the glasses will last a long time after repair, and time has confirmed this. The technology of repairing glasses with a rivet was tested by me on several types of glasses frames, after the repair, the glasses at the junction of the temples with the console no longer broke.

Repairing the temple of glasses with a broken hinge

A neighbor turned to me with a request to try to repair his favorite glasses, as they refused to repair him in a specialized workshop - they advised him to buy new ones.

The shackle of the glasses broke at the hinge point and at first glance it seemed that it was impossible to repair the glasses. But if you think about it, you can always find a way to repair it.

First you need to unscrew the self-tapping screw and glue the broken part of the loop to the temple with Super-glue "Contact". I often use this glue to glue any cracked or broken parts. But in this case, the fracture area is small and the glue will not hold securely. Therefore, the parts were glued mainly for the convenience of further repairs.

Next, a bracket was bent from a paper clip, as shown in the photograph, and, using heating with an electric soldering iron, was fused in the longitudinal direction of the temple. The middle of the bracket should follow the crack line.

To ensure a secure connection, a second bracket was fused across the temple. In order not to burn your fingers and melt the bracket into the right place of the temple, it is convenient to hold it with tweezers. It takes up to a minute to warm up the brackets, there is no need to rush here. When the bracket warms up to the melting temperature of the plastic, it will easily fit into it.

After the brackets are fused into the temple, all that remains is to smooth out the protruding plastic and cut off the excess after it has cooled with a knife or grind it off with fine-grained sandpaper. If the bracket appears on the surface, then it can be heated again and sunk deeper.

Now the brackets are no longer visible, the resistance to breakage after reinforcement with steel brackets of the temple has become higher than before. The glasses will no longer break at this point. If desired, the joint can be polished, making it completely invisible.

The repairs have been completed and now the glasses look like new and, if treated with care, will last a long time. When I returned the glasses to my neighbor, he was very surprised that they were able to be repaired, but he doubted whether the temple would break off in this place again. After a month of wearing it, he started asking me what kind of glue I used to glue the glasses together. After all, he did not know that the bow at the site of the breakdown was reinforced with metal brackets.

Repair of the place where the temple of glasses is attached to the rim

Another pair of glasses with a broken temple went into repair. But in this case, the earhook was intact, but the place where it was attached to the headband was destroyed.

The earhook loop was made of brass so it didn't break. This failure is more likely due to a design flaw in the frames of the glasses, rather than to handling them.

The earhook loop was attached to a rectangular hole made in the frame using one self-tapping screw screwed into the metal of the loop. When wearing glasses, the screw slowly unscrewed, and the load on the plastic increased, which is why it cracked. Ultimately, the self-tapping screw was completely unscrewed and lost, causing the shackle to fall out of the mount.

There was no screw suitable for the size, so I had to use a standard M1.5. To do this, a thread was cut in the hinge bar with a tap.

The plate on the rim for securing the earhook loop had a crack. But installing a metal bracket to strengthen it was impractical, since it was necessary not only to strengthen the plate, but also to increase the support area of ​​the screw head

Therefore, a washer with a ribbed circumference was selected and fused into the plate by heating it with a soldering iron. As a result, the area of ​​support of the screw head on the plastic increased many times over, and the crack partially melted, which also increased its strength.

Next, the mating surfaces of the plates were lubricated with Super-Moment glue, the hinge plate was inserted into the square hole in the base of the glasses and the screw was tightened. At the same time, the broken fragment from the frame was also glued. It did not bear the load and therefore there was no need to strengthen its fastening with a bracket.

The next glasses were repaired with our own hands and their use for several months confirmed the reliability of the repairs performed.

Half-rim frame repair
with lens mount on fishing line

In a semi-rimless frame, the lenses are half mounted in the frame, and the rest of them are held in the frame by a fishing line, half recessed in the bevel (a groove running along the entire length of the end of the lens). Thanks to this method of attaching lenses, glasses have an elegant appearance and are lighter in weight compared to rim frames, especially if the lenses are plastic.

But you have to pay for elegance with a more careful attitude during use, since such a frame, compared to a bezel frame, is less reliable. If you forget to take off your glasses and start to remove a piece of clothing over your head, it may well happen that the glass falls out or the fishing line jumps out of the frame, as in the photo. If the lens falls out, but the fishing line remains securely fastened in the half-rim, then due to the elasticity of the fishing line, the lens can be put back in place. If the fishing line is disconnected from the frame, you will need to replace the fishing line with a new one.

But don’t get upset and run to the workshop; such a breakdown of the semi-rimless frame of glasses is not difficult to fix with your own hands. For repairs, ten centimeters of transparent fishing line with a diameter of 0.8 mm is enough. You can ask fishermen you know for fishing line or ask at any fishing tackle store. They cut off half a meter for me as a thank you.

The first step when starting repairs is to remove the old fishing line from the frame. Usually it is enough to move the fishing line back and forth with force and it will move from the place of attachment. If its melted ends interfere, the line can be cut. It won't be needed anymore anyway.

After freeing the holes from the old fishing line, you need to check whether the fishing line purchased for repair fits well. To do this, you need to bite off one of its ends with side cutters or cut off obliquely so that the end of the fishing line becomes sharp. This will make it easier to insert it into the holes of the frame.

If the fishing line cannot be threaded through the mounting hole of the frame, it needs to be cleaned. This is best done using a mini drill with a drill bit with a diameter of 0.8 mm. But if this is not possible, then you can use a needle or a thin awl; an unbent paper clip will also do.

The holes in the half-rim of the frame are cone-shaped; on the lens side their diameters are 0.8 mm, and on the outer side 1.5 mm. This is clearly visible in the photograph. Thus, by melting the end of the fishing line, you can securely secure it in the frame.

First, the fishing line is threaded through the hole in the nose pad, without a lens. Next, the end of the fishing line is melted using a soldering iron and quickly, before the end of the fishing line hardens, it is pulled into the hole in the nose pad. You need to retract it slowly so that the line does not jump out of the hole.

If you have a high-power soldering iron at your disposal, you can wind several turns of any wire with a diameter of 1-2 mm, copper, aluminum or steel, around its tip. And with this improvised sting, warm up the fishing line. If you don’t have a soldering iron, you can melt the fishing line with a nail heated on the burner of a gas stove. To avoid getting burned, you need to hold the nail with pliers. You can use the sharp tip of a heated electric iron to melt the fishing line or, at worst, even a small flame of a lighter.

After fixing one end of the fishing line in the nose pad, a lens is inserted and the fishing line, threaded into the hole from the side of the temple, is pulled. Next, the fishing line is pressed with your fingers at the point of passage in the facet of the lens, and cut off in such a way that its end protrudes from the hole by a couple of millimeters. Next, the lens is removed, the second end of the fishing line is melted, and after cooling, its lens is installed in the semi-rim.

The remnants of molten fishing line protruding from the holes of the frame must be cut flush with a sharp knife.

The glasses have been repaired and are like new. The repair took less time than it took to read this article, which I hope was useful to you.

Repairing a broken half-rim of a glasses frame

A few years passed, and my favorite half-rim glasses on a fishing line cracked as a result of a collision with the right angle of a kitchen shelf.

As you can see in the photo, the frame broke in the glass installation area at the narrowest point. To repair it, gluing technology was used, followed by reinforcement of the fracture site with a metal bracket.

In the first step, the frame must be glued with Super-Moment glue or similar, intended for gluing plastic products. To do this, you must first apply a thin layer of glue to the inside of the rim of the frame, which is in contact with the glass along its entire length. Next, also apply a thin layer of glue to the end of the glass in contact with the frame.

After gluing, a small gap was discovered between the glass and the nose pad. To ensure reliable gluing, a small amount of soda was poured into this gap and then soaked in glue.

After such gluing, the frame received sufficient strength, but for higher joint strength, a metal bracket made from a paper clip was additionally installed.

The bracket was fused into the glasses frame using an electric soldering iron. For clarity, the photo shows the bracket not yet completely recessed into the plastic.

Ultimately, the bracket was completely recessed into the plastic of the glasses, the area was cleaned with sandpaper and polished with felt. There are practically no traces of repairs left.

In the same way, you can successfully repair the plastic temples and cracked frames where the nose rests with your own hands.

Repairing a broken plastic rim of a glasses frame

I had to repair glasses with plastic frames, in which one of the plastic glasses fell out of the rim.

Upon closer examination, it turned out that the rim at the bottom was cracked in half. This is one of the glasses breakdowns that you can fix yourself in a few minutes.

To do this, just apply Super glue to the crack and on the inside of the rim a couple of centimeters away from the crack. Next, insert the glass into the rim, squeeze it tightly and hold it there for a couple of minutes.

The rim of the glasses at the crack site does not bear any force load, and therefore there is no need for reinforcement with steel wire. The glasses have been repaired, the appearance has not changed, and now, if treated with care, they will last a long time.

Repairing metal eyeglass frames with a broken rim

They brought me glasses with metal frames with a broken rim at the bridge of my nose, which the repair shop refused to repair. The breakdown was really serious. Glue, even the strongest in this case, will not hold, since the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe end of the rim at the fracture site was no more than a square millimeter.

I also immediately thought that this was a hopeless case and it was impossible to repair the glasses, but after a while the idea suddenly came up how to do without metal welding. After all, you can repair the frame by gluing a broken metal rim directly to the lens of the glasses. The area of ​​the bonding surfaces will become large and thus sufficient strength of the frame after the repair as a whole will be ensured.

The universal super glue “Contact” is well suited for gluing frames. This adhesive is made on the basis of cyanoacrylate, has great adhesive strength and polymerizes upon contact with water in the air. The higher the air humidity, the faster the glue hardens, so you can glue even damp surfaces. The setting time of the glue, depending on air humidity, ranges from several seconds to several minutes. The glue hardens completely within a day.

By the way, not all home craftsmen know that if you need to quickly repair a crack or chip in hard materials, you can prepare homemade putty by mixing super glue with baking soda.

The lenses of the glasses were plastic, and to protect them from glue getting on the optical surface, strips of tape had to be glued on both sides around the perimeter of the lens. It is undesirable to cover the entire surface of the lens with a single piece of tape, since after gluing it will be difficult to peel it off without damaging the optical surface of the lens. Excess tape on the ends of the lens can be easily removed using fine sandpaper.

If the lenses are made of glass, then there is no need to glue the tape. Super glue is easily softened with acetone, which is safe for glass. Therefore, to remove glue residues after repair from the optical surface of the lenses, it is enough to wipe them soft cloth, soaked in this solvent.

Before gluing, you need to think through all the movements and practice installing the lens into the frame before applying glue to it. When the movements are practiced, you need to apply glue to the end of the lens, accurately insert it into place in the frame and tighten the frame ring with your fingers for a few minutes. I could not take photographs of applying the glue and installing the lens, since only a few seconds were allotted for this operation.

When the glue sets, remove the tape and tighten the frame with thread, tying it as in the photo. The glasses should be left bandaged for a day until the glue has completely hardened. If there is a gap between the rim of the frame and the lens, it is advisable to additionally fill it with super glue.

Checking the glasses frame after repair with gluing showed that it has a sufficient margin of safety for further use. The appearance of the glasses remained without visible changes.

Repairing a broken eyeglass frame temple

At the request of a friend, I had to repair glasses where one of the temples had broken in half. The breakdown occurred at the junction of its metal part with the plastic extension.

The metal part of the temple was attached to the plastic part by means of a protruding pin, which was tightly inserted into the hole in the plastic part of the temple and secured with a screw. It was not possible to remove the pin from the plastic after unscrewing the screw, since the break occurred along the line of the plastic, and it was impossible for the tool to catch on the pin. I also didn’t want to grind down the plastic to shorten the temple.

The difficulty of repairing the earhook at first glance was aggravated by the fact that the metal part was covered in openwork holes. But as it turned out, this was a plus. To restore the integrity of the temple, a specially shaped pad was made from a sheet of brass 1 mm thick. I do not give the geometric dimensions of the pad, since all temples are different and the pad for repairing a specific glasses frame will have its own dimensions, depending on the width of the temple at the point of breakage.

As you can see from the photo, two holes were drilled in the cover and three bends were made. The bends are needed to prevent axial swing of the connected parts of the temple. The dimensions of the holes determined the finished holes in the metal and plastic parts of the temple, and were 2.5 mm and 1.5 mm in diameter, respectively.

The metal part of the temple was secured to the pad using a shortened M2.5 screw with a conical head. The screw was used as a rivet.

It was inserted from the outside of the metal part of the temple and riveted from the inside with a small hammer. To ensure that the riveted part of the screw does not protrude into the plate, the hole was pre-countersinked.

The pad was secured to the plastic part of the temple using an M1.5 screw screwed into the previously existing threaded hole in the remaining pin.

The photo shows a view of the pad after installing the screw and rivet on the inside of the temple.

And in this photo is a view from the outside of the temple after connecting its broken parts.

All that remains is to attach the earpiece to the frame of the glasses using a standard screw and the repair can be considered complete.

This is what the glasses looked like after the repair. If you don’t look closely, it’s difficult to notice the restored place on the temple, it’s not noticeable. But the earhook has become much stronger and now it will definitely never break in this place.

Repair of plastic glasses frames
with broken headband and earhook loop

Glasses with frames made of thermoplastic plastic are easier to repair, since it melts easily when heated, adheres well, and is dissolved by certain types of solvents, for example, dichloroethane or benzene.

I was faced with the repair of glasses with plastic frames, which were broken in three places at once. The right ear hook of the frame was broken off.

Also, as can be seen in the photo, part of the rim on the side where the temple was attached to the base was broken off. Apparently, the glasses were accidentally sat on or stepped on.

The repairs had to be carried out in two stages. First, using super-glue “Contact” using the technology described above, used to repair a metal frame of glasses with a broken rim at the bridge, the broken plastic part of the rim was glued to its original place.

In the glasses being repaired, the temples were equipped with flexes, which, during use, would create a large load on the glued part of the rim. Therefore, to ensure sufficient strength of the rim, two steel brackets, bent from a paper clip, were additionally installed at the gluing site, fused into the plastic.

To fuse a paper clip, you need to take it with tweezers and apply it to the place with the crack, as shown in the photo. Next, use a soldering iron tip with a power of 12-40 W to heat the bracket, lightly pressing on it from above. This usually takes a few minutes. There is no need to rush here.

When the bracket has entered the plastic a little, you can remove the tweezers and then, pressing, continue to heat the bracket until it is completely sunk into the base of the glasses.

Next, the soldering iron tip smoothes out the plastic squeezed out by the bracket so that the bracket is completely hidden. After the plastic has hardened, the resulting unevenness is ground off with a file or sandpaper, and the roughness is removed by polishing with felt. After this, you can begin repairing the hinge joint.

First, you need to remove the remaining loop with side cutters and use a file to level the surface of the junction of the temple with the base of the glasses.

You need to bend a rectangular loop from copper or steel wire ∅1-1.5 mm. The photo shows a loop made from electrical wiring wire. Copper, unlike steel, bends easily and has sufficient strength.

Based on the size of the base, the ends of the loop are shortened to the required length and moved apart. This shape of the loop will ensure its reliable fixation in the plastic case of the glasses.

Next, the eyelet is placed on a flat surface covered with a soft cloth and pressed down with a heavy object. The base is placed close to it, as in the photograph. All that remains is to fuse the homemade eyelet into the base body of the glasses using the technology described above for the bracket. After cooling, the hinged joint made will hold quite tightly and work well. If the plastic at the melting point loses its shine, then you can cover this place with a thin layer of liquid transparent nail polish. Varnish is usually solvent-based, which softens the thermoplastic plastic.

As you can see in the photo, the repaired hinge joint of the glasses turned out to be quite neat.

From the outside, traces of repair of the plastic frame are practically invisible. The glasses have been repaired and are ready for further wear.

How to repair glasses
with a broken bow at the hinge point

In the Guest Book, Margarita from Rybinsk asked me the following question:
– I have such a problem, the child broke his glasses! The bow broke off at the hinge with the screw, that is, the hinge with the screw remained on the frame, and the bow was without a hole. The frame is plastic. I took my glasses to a repair shop and they said they couldn’t fix them, I had to buy new ones. Maybe you can recommend something.

My advice:
– Everything can be repaired, but the complexity of repairs and the need to purchase special tools often make repairs economically impractical. This is exactly your case. But since the main cost of glasses is optical glass and their installation, you can repair glasses at low cost if you buy a cheap frame, from which the arms will match your glasses in color, method of fastening and loop size. It's even better to buy the exact same frame. Switching the temples from one glasses to another is not difficult. The glasses will be like new.

Glasses are not only a decoration, but also a necessity for many people with vision problems. Their most fragile parts are the arms, which often break. We present to your attention a method through which you can now easily make glasses at home.

Necessary materials
Dark veneer for frame (2 pieces 50x30)
Light veneer for interlayer (3 pieces 50x30)
Wooden block (approximately 50x30 cm)
Epoxy resin
Vise
Sandpaper
Spring clips (2 pieces)
Jigsaw
Varnish

If you look closely at the frame of the glasses, you will see that it is slightly curved. To make the frame look like this, you need to draw a slightly curved straight line on a wooden block and carefully divide it into two parts along the line using a saw. You will get two bars: one concave on one side, and the other convex. All these parts are well sanded and sealed with tape.

Make a frame from veneer. To do this, 3 light pieces of veneer are laid together one on top of the other, and dark ones on top and bottom.

All parts are well glued with epoxy resin.

Thus, the future frame will be layered.

To prevent the layered veneer from coming apart, you should place it in a bag and wrap it tightly with tape. Then lay the veneer in parts of the timber and clamp it in a vice. Allow to dry completely.

Excess glue should be removed and sanded on all sides with sandpaper.

Place the old glasses frame against the veneer and secure with spring clips. It is necessary to trace all the contours of the glasses with a pencil.

Using a jigsaw, cut out a new frame along the pencil lines.

The holes into which the glasses will be inserted should be sanded.

The temples of the glasses can be made from any small wooden block, 1-1.5 cm thick. To do this, you need to trace the old temples with a pencil and cut along the contours with an electric jigsaw.

By personal fitting, determine the angle of inclination of the arms in relation to the frame of the glasses. Then mark with a pencil, draw a line and cut with a jigsaw.

It is necessary to make locks that will connect the temples and frame of the glasses. To do this, draw the convex parts of the lock on the arms and the holes for them on the frame. Using a hacksaw, carefully cut.

Then connect the arms to the frame.

Coat all wooden parts with varnish.

Any person who regularly uses glasses has encountered some kind of trouble with them. From a loose screw holding the ear hook to the frame to a broken frame. And if even a child can handle the first one, then in all other cases the advice of experienced people, certain equipment and tools, as well as skills in working with this tool will be required. What tools and equipment will be required for repairs, tips for repairing a particular part of a glasses frame will be discussed below.

First, I would like to dwell on the reasons for the occurrence of certain breakdowns. Typically, there are two reasons:

1. The first is the natural wear and tear of parts due to their long-term use.
2. The second is the impact of brute physical force on the frame. He dropped it and stepped on it. I didn’t notice and sat on them. You put it in your inner pocket and you were pressed in the crowd, among public transport passengers.

It is quite possible for a home craftsman to fix most of the damage that occurs to the frame itself.

To repair the frame, you may need the following tools and materials:

• watch screwdriver, pocket knife;
• small pliers, miniature vice;
• electric drill, electric soldering iron;
• universal glue;
• fishing line 0.3 mm.

The frame of glasses can be made of metal or plastic. The similarities in their repair end with restoring the functionality of the hinge. So let's start with it.

The holes in the hinge are loose, the screw is lost

Most often, the holes in the hinge become loose, where the screw that secures the ear hook to the frame is inserted. It even happens that such a screw is lost. It is unlikely that such a trifle can be found in stock. Although a thrifty owner can hide either its analogue from glasses that cannot be restored, or look where such screws can be found. For example, in a broken calculator. If it turns out that the thread is knocked down, it can be restored by screwing in a screw of a slightly larger diameter. Being made of a harder metal it will restore the knocked threads and the hinge will hold tight.

For greater reliability, the end of this screw can be riveted. If it was not possible to find a suitable screw, then there is only one way out. Pick up a piece of copper or steel wire, insert it into the eyes, cut off both ends leaving a margin of 0.3-0.5 mm and rivet both ends using a small hammer. A brass pin with a head at one end d=0.3-0.5mm works well. When riveting the opposite end, it will flatten and give this part of the hinge a neat appearance.

The arc of the lens window cracked

This happens with plastic frames. The problem can be solved by taking the most obvious route at first glance - gluing the frame's temple back together at the split point. But! Finding super glue is quite difficult. You also need to remember that a large load occurs at the rupture site. Therefore, experts advise reducing the load by gluing the lens along the entire perimeter of the window before gluing the fracture site.

For a more reliable bonding of the frame itself and the lens with it, tie this place tightly for a while with a strong thread or fishing line. This method is very suitable if the frame is broken in two places. Paste the plastic lens with adhesive tape on both sides before applying glue to its ends. This glue contains a solvent that can damage the lens. After the glue has dried, clean and sand the junction of the broken parts.

If scratches are noticeable, you can cover this place with a thin layer of colorless nail polish. The joint will be reliable if the broken parts of the frame are welded by hot welding. The characteristics of plastic allow this to be done. But the melted joint will look sloppy. It will be very difficult to give them a marketable appearance.

Glass pops out when you turn your head suddenly

This is typical for glasses with thin metal frames. There may be two reasons for this.

Or the screw connecting the two parts of the lens window has become loose. In this case, it will be enough to tighten the screw until it stops with a watch screwdriver, and flare the opposite end. Or the frame, made of thin metal, is bent and in this form is not able to hold the lens in place. Here it is necessary to disassemble the frame and using the lens as a blank, straighten the frame along its contour. This work must be carried out as carefully as possible. Metal, as a rule, is very thin, its frequent and sharp bends can lead to irreversible consequences. After that, since the lens has been removed from the frame, you can put it on glue for reliability, tighten it with screws and quickly remove excess glue.

ATTENTION! Expert advice. After disassembling the frame, clean the inner perimeter of the lens windows from dirt accumulated there during the use of glasses.

The frame is split in half at the bridge of the nose

Immediately before work, you need to prepare some equipment. First of all, make the so-called conductor. This is a thin wooden plate with a length slightly less than the width of the glasses and a width equal to the height of the frame. To avoid scratching the lenses, wrap this plate with a thin, soft cloth. You can use a wooden ruler for this.

During the work, you will need a drill with a drill of the smallest possible diameter. You need to think about how to secure it motionless. In this case, your hands will be free to do other work. Before starting work, thoroughly degrease the broken area on both halves of the frame.

One half of the frame is fixed to the conductor using a regular rubber band. The second half is pressed tightly against the first and fixed in exactly the same way.

Before you start gluing, you need to make sure that all parts are securely fastened and will not move during the work. After this, apply glue to the fracture site, making sure that no air bubbles form. Then remove excess glue and leave the glasses alone for a while to let the glue dry.

The next step is to select the optimal distance in both halves of the frame near the fracture site and drill two through holes from the upper ends of the frame. An ordinary thread 120 cm long, folded in half, is inserted into one of them using a needle. Then this thread is threaded into the second hole, then it is pulled back into the first. This procedure is repeated two to three times. The diameter of the drilled hole will no longer allow. The thread is stretched as tightly as possible with each turn. The remaining ends are bred in different directions and fixed with tape on the temples of the glasses. The threads that act as a bandage are coated with glue.

ATTENTION! Expert advice. Some people advise cleaning the broken area with sandpaper. It's hardly worth doing this. After all, it’s a fracture, not a smooth cut. The coincidence of the teeth and depressions of the fault will contribute to a stronger connection of both parts of the frame.

Following this, one of the ends of the thread is removed from the temple of the glasses and neatly, firmly, the turn to the turn obliquely is wound onto the place of gluing. Having fixed this thread at the opposite end of the bandage, fasten its turns together by filling them with glue. Next, the same operation is performed with the second end of the thread. In this case, the bevel goes in the opposite direction.

This cross-shaped winding makes the connection more durable. In both cases, two or three such winding layers must be made, while not forgetting to impregnate each layer with glue.

The part of the hinge joint pressed into the frame is broken

First of all, with the help of side cutters and a needle file, you should get rid of the remnants of the hinge element fused into the frame. Or, after warming up this fragment with tweezers with a powerful soldering iron, remove it from the frame and grind the vacant place.

Then, from a copper or steel wire with a diameter corresponding to the size of the eyelet of the hinge element remaining in the temple, bend a loop with an internal diameter equal to the screw securing the hinge elements. After selecting the desired diameter of the resulting loop, use miniature pliers with round jaws to give the workpiece the appearance of the Greek letter omega.

The next step is to install the resulting hinge element in place. Grab the resulting workpiece with miniature tweezers, press it at the installation site and heat it with a powerful soldering iron. During the heating process, the loop will gradually deepen into the frame to the desired depth. When the desired depth is reached, the soldering iron is removed, the plastic hardens, and the loop is firmly fixed in the frame.

Finishing work remains. Irregularities formed during the process of attaching the lugs can be removed using the same soldering iron. Sand the area with fine-grained sandpaper. The shine lost after sanding can be restored with clear nail polish.

The temples come apart and the glasses don't fit well on your face.

The reasons for the discrepancy between the temples for metal and plastic eyeglass frames are different. There is only one thing in common - the holes in the hinge joints have become loose after long use. The elimination of these shortcomings was discussed in paragraph one. When using glasses with plastic frames, one of the reasons for the divergence of the temples is that the edges are erased at the points of contact with the frame. As a result, the angle of divergence of the temples exceeds the established 100 degrees.

Here you can solve the problem if you restore the worn-out part of one of the surfaces by fusing or gluing a thin layer of plastic onto it. You can use glue, which after drying will acquire a certain hardness. Then carefully sand these inserts, adjusting them to the desired size in thickness.

Of course, when applying these inserts, you should not cut them to the exact area. They can be adjusted at the end of the work on the sticker inserts. Metal frames have different ways attaching the earpieces to the frame. There are those when the temple is attached to a bracket that is integral with the frame.

It happens that under the influence of brute force these brackets can be bent in any direction. In this case, they can be returned to their original position using miniature pliers.

Broken earpiece in the back

Temples break only in cases where a metal rod is not used as a base. As a rule, such temples are made of fairly thick plastic. Therefore, you can connect the broken parts using a thread bandage according to the method described above.

Considering the width and thickness of the temple, part of it can be ground off with a needle file in order to apply a bandage into the resulting groove. In this case, it will not stand out strongly on the surface of the temple.

Another way is to drill holes in the center of both fragments into which a metal pin 15 - 20 mm long can be inserted. After using this pin, both parts of the earhook are joined, lubricate the junction with superglue.

The frame is bent outward and the glasses do not hold well on the face, the temples are arched

The plastic frame and temples can only be bent under the influence of high temperature. They are elastic enough to keep the shape of the bend under the influence of force. This means that you can give them their previous shape in the same way - heat them and bend them to their original position. You can heat it to the desired softness in hot water - boiling water using a pair of pliers. The plastic from which the glasses are made lends itself well to heating and this operation is usually successful.

After the part to be repaired has warmed up sufficiently, remove it from the water. Place the earhook on a flat surface and press down with something heavy until it cools completely. Give the frame the desired bend and hold in this position with your hands, too, until completely cooled. It can bend only at the place of the jumper between the lens windows. This is where the main effort should be made.

Deformations of metal frames and temples can be corrected by mechanical action with pliers or simply by hand.

There are not many things in the world that have remained virtually unchanged since their invention. Glasses are one of these items.

Glasses were apparently invented in Italy in the 13th century. The estimated year of invention is 1284, and the creator of the first glasses is considered to be Salvino D'Armate (Italian), although there is no documentary evidence for this data. Since then, glasses have become firmly established in the lives of many people. The production of glasses has changed significantly. So I wondered how Now they are making glasses for vision. For permission to film the production process, I turned to the management of the Chameleon company, who met me and gave me the go-ahead to film...

Just as any theater begins with a hanger, so any production begins with a warehouse.

This is exactly what blanks for lenses look like, which after processing will take up space in the frame


Previously, mostly glass was used for lenses (in the first glasses they used quartz and crystal because they could not yet obtain high-quality glass), now high-quality plastic is increasingly used. Plastic is lighter, cheaper and has more processing capabilities


Now the choice of lenses is very large - there are tinted and gradient lenses, coated lenses, etc. and so on. For every taste and color


But let's return to the production chain. After you have chosen the frame for the lenses and the lenses themselves. The manufacturing process begins


The Dioptrimeter comes into play first.

Lensmeter Tomey TL-100 (Japan) allows you to measure any lens; the device records the refractive power of the glass and expresses it quantitatively - in diopters
Next, the technician scans the frame and combines the lens and frame data. All this is done on the Essilor Kappa Ultimate Edition lens processing system
The photo shows the frame scanning process


In the process of high-precision scanning of the frame, absolutely all parameters are determined: the shape, the basic curvature, as well as the profile of the facet groove in the frame, which, in end result, is a decisive factor in calculating the dimensions of the finished lens. Using the high-precision frame scanning feature, the finished lens after processing will perfectly fit the frame, without any additional “fitting”.


After scanning the frame, the master places the lens blank into the centering chamber, where it is completely automatic. The system will determine the optical center of the lens, its refraction, cylinder axis, progressive lens marking or bifocal segment. .
The outline of the scanned frame and the lens in the centering chamber are clearly visible on the monitor

After receiving all the necessary data, the lens is placed in a processing (turning) machine, which operates on the basis of an EAS cycle.


Thanks to this cycle, the machine automatically selects the clamping force of the lens and the force of its pressure on the wheels during the entire processing cycle.

Processing time is no more than 1 minute

+

and we receive a finished lens, machined to the size of the frame.


This is how glasses are made literally in 10-20 minutes. Most of the time is spent on choosing suitable frames and lenses because... The selection of these products is very, very large....


Have sharp eyesight.


Thank you for your attention. I hope you enjoyed it. I express my gratitude to the management of the company "Chameleon Optical Salons Chain" for the opportunity to conduct the shooting
-If you use photographs for non-commercial purposes, do not forget to put an active link to my magazine.
-All photographs posted in this magazine are my authorship, unless otherwise stated.