Inserting a lock into the door leaf. Installing a mortise lock on a wooden door yourself: photos and videos

The front door is a reliable barrier to intruders entering the house. An important point is the choice of a lock for such a design, which allows for increased protection. Locks come in different types and classes of burglary resistance. It is necessary to correctly approach the process of selecting and installing locking products. Installation is not difficult, but follow the instructions.

Installing a suitable lock into a wooden door

Attention! Wooden doors are often installed in country houses. The question arises, how to embed. The process itself is typical, so it is important to follow the instructions, selecting the appropriate tools for this. The lock itself must fit the door in order to achieve positive results and durability of use.

What tools are needed?

The first thing you need to do is select the lock itself and the required tools for installation. Among the most necessary are the following:

1. Chalk and a simple pencil, which will be required to complete the markings.
2. Electric drill. It comes with a set of drills for woodworking. Their sizes range from 2 to 7 mm.
3. Chisels. They must be sharp. Two pieces are enough - wide and narrow.
4. A tape measure and a square for it.
5. Hammer.
6. A rasp with a coarse notch or a round file.
7. Screwdriver. If it is not there, use an ordinary screwdriver.

After the tools are prepared, they begin to work. Installation is considered more difficult than installing an overhead. In the latter case, there is no need to cut a hole of a suitable size, so installing the lock or latch in the door is simple. In any case, it is important to know how to do it correctly and what to consider.

Installed lock with handle in a wooden door

The insertion of a lock of any type into a wooden door may be necessary for various reasons. The most common is the construction of a house and the installation of doors, mechanisms, handles and latches. However, replacing the lock on a wooden door is also common. The reasons are long-term use, breakdown, problems with functioning or hacking. In any of these cases, it becomes necessary to install a mortise lock on a wooden door.

Where to start?

The first stage of installation is the creation of a special groove or hole for the lock body. To do this, you need to make markings to determine at what height to mount the product. Most often, the height reaches 90-100 cm from the floor. But this size varies depending on ease of use. The height is selected for the people who will use the lock or latch and handle.

Creating a groove for the plank using a chisel

Once you have determined the height, marking is done. To do this, the lock is applied to the door with the part that will be mounted in the hole on the door leaf. Using chalk or a pencil, outline the body of the product. The result is a mark that allows you to understand where the locking mechanism will be located.

The hole is cut using a feather drill. In this case, it is worth giving preference to the product that corresponds in width to the thickness of the lock. Drilling a hole is done in different ways. The first method involves carefully and gradually moving the drill inside the door leaf by 1-2 centimeters until the required mark is reached. The second method involves immediately drilling a hole.

The hole itself should be 1-2 mm larger than the width of the lock body. This will ensure unhindered entry of the lock into the created hole. It is recommended to hold the drill perpendicular to the end of the door and parallel to the surface. Align the edges of the hole using a hammer and chisel.

Marking the lock on the end of the door leaf

Important! To hide the lock in the hole, make it 2-3 mm deeper than the width of the case.

Marking the strip and its installation is carried out in the same way. To do this, it is applied to the resulting hole and traced along the contour using a pencil. It is better to knock out along the intended lines using a chisel so as not to spoil the edges of the hole for the lock.

The next step is the hole for the mechanism

To install it in a wooden door, you should make sure there is a hole for the mechanism of the product. Only after this can you install a lock or latch on the door and begin installing the handle. Installation of the mechanism or cylinder itself requires precise markings. To do this, the lock body is placed opposite the previously obtained groove. The fastening elements are marked on the door leaf with a pencil. After this, the holes are drilled using a drill that matches the diameter.

Attaching a latch to a wooden door

The result is grooves, the edges of which should be carefully leveled. It is best to use a file for these purposes, which will help you quickly deal with the problem. If you additionally plan to install a latch or handle, it is important to know how to properly embed the lock in this case. Installation involves drilling additional holes for the rods and screws that act as fasteners for the latch or handle.

We can assume that preparations for inserting the lock are complete. The lock should be inserted into the prepared grooves and secured using appropriate fasteners. All elements are attached using self-tapping screws and bolts; there is no need to use additional elements.

Last steps of installation work

The final stage of the work is to create a hole in the door frame for the normal functioning of the lock, latch or door handle itself. If you omit this moment, the door will not close properly and fit tightly. This should be done only after you have verified that the lock is functioning normally and that there are no problems or jams.

To mark the hole, apply a small amount of chalk to the tongue or crossbars of the mechanism. After this, the door is closed by turning the mechanism. As a result, you can see a chalk mark on the jamb. Here it is necessary to create holes for the crossbars of the mechanism or the tongue of the handle.

The principle of cutting holes is similar to cutting a hole for the lock or latch itself. There are no differences here. You can use a drill or hammer with a chisel, being careful not to remove excess material. If the markings are done correctly, you will end up with holes into which the lock bolts fit without problems. Now attach the locking plate in accordance with the markings. Special screws are used as fasteners. At this point, the installation of the lock is considered complete, and the door is ready for use.

The final stage of installation work on installing a lock on a wooden door

Now you know how to insert the lock and handle to it. In general, installation of the mechanism is not difficult and can be done independently. Experts recommend that you carefully read the instructions before installing the lock, latch, handle and other mechanisms. This will allow you to understand how to install the lock and handle with the latch correctly, how to avoid problems and ensure long-term operation. If you have problems, you should contact professionals who will quickly correct the situation, providing your home with reliable protection from intruders.

A man should be able to do any housework: nail a shelf, fix a faucet, or cut a lock into a door. All this work requires not only skillful hands, but also knowledge. The following will provide instructions on how to fit the lock into the door correctly. This process is not that difficult, but it does require a certain level of preparation that any home owner should have.

A set of necessary elements for inserting a lock

In order to insert the locking element into the door correctly the first time, without damaging the material or deforming the surface, you need to have the necessary set of tools on hand. You cannot do without a drill or screwdriver, which must have a drilling function. This is necessary in order to make a hole in the door. To cut a hole of the correct shape and size, you will need a set of round bits.

They are well suited for drilling wood. You also need to have a hammer and chisel on hand, with which you can easily sand the hole and place a device in it to close the doors. In order to take the necessary measurements, you will need a tape measure, ruler or centimeter. To mark the desired points on the surface of the door itself, you can use a simple pencil. To fix the lock, you cannot do without a screwdriver. That's all the basic tools you need to mortise a lock yourself.

Before inserting the closing mechanism, it is necessary to determine its location on the surface of the door. To choose the most convenient position for the lock and handle, you should simply try to open an imaginary door while standing in front of the surface of the door without a lock. At what level the hand is, that’s where you need to make a hole so that opening and closing is simple and comfortable. If there is a child in the family, the lock needs to be installed a little lower so that the child does not experience discomfort when manipulating the lock handle. The place that was determined experimentally must be marked with a pencil directly on the surface of the door. The preparatory work is finished!

Marking the plane to perform the work

The next step in the closure mortising process is to make a hole in the door material. Before drilling, you need to accurately determine the place where the drill bit with the crown should be located. To do this correctly, you need to take the closing mechanism itself and use a tape measure to determine the distance from its visible edge to the hole for the pin, which organizes the entire operation of this device.

It is this distance from the edge of the door that needs to be marked at the height that was previously determined. Once the drilling location has been determined, you need to choose the right bit for the drill.

Proper selection of drill bits is the key to quality work

The main difficulty when choosing a crown for drilling is the correct selection of its diameter. It should be wide enough to accommodate the closing mechanism, but narrow enough that the hole will not be visible from the outside of the latch. To do this, you need to measure the height of the visible part of the latch and subtract a few centimeters from this distance. With such a hole diameter, the mechanism should go inside the door space, but the hole will not be noticeable under the cover of the lock body.

For those who are afraid of making mistakes in their calculations, there are special crowns that are made for making holes for door locks. Typically, such crowns are sold in a set of 2 instruments of different diameters. After the necessary measurements of the hole diameter have been made, you can begin drilling. There is one trick in the drilling process that allows you to produce high-quality work. To do this, you need to drill not on one side, but on both. First we drill one side to the middle, then the other. This will make the hole as even and smooth as possible.

How to cut a hole in the end?

After the hole on the plane has been cut, you should do the same at the end of the door. The mechanism itself for closing the door will be inserted into this space, so you need to make the hole carefully and carefully. The drill bit must be directed so that it is exactly in the middle of the door end. The size of the crown must be selected according to a principle similar to the process of selecting the diameter of the hole on the surface. In order for the lock insert to be considered complete, you need to make one more small touch. It is necessary to make a small recess so that the latch can be completely hidden at the end. If this is not done, it may cling to the door frame, which will create problems with opening the door.

Then you need to insert the closing mechanism into the hole and circle its entire visible part with a simple pencil. After this, the latch can be pulled out. Now you need to scrape out the void inside the door using a chisel. The recess which should result from this work must be sufficient to accurately accommodate the outer plate. This work must be done as carefully as possible, since too much empty space can damage the door, and the mechanism will wobble. Therefore, it is advisable to have experience working with a chisel.

Installing a lock in a hole

When all the holes and recesses are ready, you can move on to the final part - installing the lock. It is very important not to make mistakes. At first it may seem that there is no difference between the sides of the locking device. However, if it is equipped with a stopper, then there is this difference. The lock handles most often actually rotate in both directions, but the stopper only works in one direction. Therefore, it is necessary that it be directed towards the end. The stopper can be operated using a key or a separate latch.

Hole for locking tongue in door jamb

The main thing is not to forget that the hole for the latch tongue should also be on the door jamb. To do it correctly, you need to start taking measurements after the lock has been cut in and the door itself has been hung on its hinges. This hole should be where the tongue meets the door frame. The depth of the hole should be no less than the lock tongue. The most convenient way to make a recess in a door jamb is with a chisel.

Every man should know how to fit a lock inside a door himself.

Of course, many would entrust this task to a professional, but it is always more pleasant to do difficult work yourself. Then the result will bring real pleasure, and the person will gain invaluable experience.

You bought, say, a new interior door and decided to assemble the door frame yourself and install this very door, without any experience. Well, it happens that you have to do some things for the first time. The most important thing here is to take your time and be attentive to what you are doing.

When I had to install interior doors in one of the apartments for the first time, I must admit, while sawing the first frame, I made a mistake. As a result, I had to buy a new box set. Since then, I have been very attentive and careful when performing work on assembling and installing doors.

When sawing door frame elements there is no room for error, you need to remember this. As they say, measure twice - cut once!
So, the door was delivered and has been standing in the corridor, perhaps for the second week. There’s nowhere else to put it off and it’s time to get down to business. A reasonable question arises. Where to start?

Marking the door leaf for insertion

You should start by marking the place on the door leaf where it will be built-in handle with latch. The door leaf is, in fact, the door itself without additional elements, frames, extensions and trim.

First, decide in which direction the door will open; the position of the bevel of the latch tongue will depend on this. Now you need to determine the height at which the door handle will be located. As a rule, the handle is embedded at a height of 90-100 cm from the floor or threshold. There are, of course, no thresholds in the rooms. But in the bathroom or toilet, they are very possible.

In box with door handle, you will almost certainly find instructions with the dimensions by which you need to mark. Often the dimensions are indicated on the box itself. Ordinary handles are almost always installed in the same pattern. Construction tool stores sell special kits for inserting handles into interior door leaves. The set consists of a feather drill with a diameter of 23 mm. and wood crowns with a diameter of 50-54 mm.

So, mark a distance of 95 cm at the end of the door leaf. Using a square, draw a clear line perpendicular to the end of the door leaf. Mark the middle on it and mark it. You can use any sharp object, an awl, a nail or a self-tapping screw. At this point you will need to drill a hole for the latch. But don't rush, it's not time yet!

Need to continue markings for pen, or speaking professionally, for knoba. To do this, you need to extend the line at the end further onto the canvas itself on both sides. This must be done strictly perpendicular to the door leaf, using a square. It would be useful to remind you that the pencil must be sharpened.

Here you should pay attention to one detail. The handle can be positioned at a distance of 60 or 70 mm. from the edge. This can be done using the adjustable latch length design. Decide which distance suits you best and mark the desired distance on both sides of the canvas on the lines drawn earlier.

Please note that on a blank canvas, that is, one that does not have decorative elements in the form of slats, glass, etc., the distance from the edge where the handle will be embedded is not critical. After all, the canvas is absolutely even and smooth. But the presence of decorative inserts can limit the position of the handle. And if you decide to embed the handle at a distance of 70 mm. from the edge of the door leaf, be sure to make sure that the handle does not overlap the decorative elements. Otherwise, make a mark of 60mm. from the edge.

Drilling a hole for the handle

Drills first hole for pen, then for latches. It is more comfortable. Firstly, when you start drilling the end, you will know exactly when to stop, and secondly, all the chips when drilling the end will simply fall down, and you will not need to sweep or blow them out with a vacuum cleaner, which is very inconvenient.

So, take a drill, attach a wood bit (50-54 mm) to the chuck and start drilling from one side, having previously marked the marked point. Do not try to drill through the entire canvas “in one go.” Firstly, the depth of the crown itself will not be enough, and secondly, the teeth of the crown will become clogged with sawdust, the crown will get very hot and burn the wood, and the deeper, the stronger. All we needed was a fire!

Having drilled 4-6 mm, without turning off the drill, pull it towards you, removing the crown from the drilled hole. There is no need to turn on the reverse and generally make sudden movements. Everything should happen smoothly but confidently.

Clean the teeth of the crown from sawdust. Be careful, it can be very hot! It all depends on the material of the door leaf and the degree of its humidity. The denser the material and the moister, the more the crown heats up. But the crown with blunt, ground teeth heats up the most. Never use this! Buy a new one is my advice.

Having cleaned the teeth of the bit, and allowed it to cool if necessary, immerse it in the same place where it was removed some time ago, and continue this important mechanical operation to obtain the hole we need so much. As I already mentioned, the crown, due to its limited depth, will not allow the canvas to pass through. Having drilled halfway, you should go to the other side and repeat the entire operation again. You need to be careful here. When approaching the middle of the canvas, do not press too hard, let yourself enjoy the last seconds of this exciting process! Otherwise, you risk the bit going through and hitting the door leaf hard with the drill. But we don’t want to scratch it or leave a dent, right?

Drilling a hole for the latch

Let's move on to the next stage. We remove the bit from the drill chuck, not forgetting about it elevated temperature. We clamp a feather drill with a diameter of 23 mm into the chuck. Pay attention to the photo. It shows that the drill is stamped with a size of 25 mm. But rest assured, no deception! It’s just that I didn’t have a drill of the required diameter, and I used a 25 mm “perk”, having previously ground its edges with a grinder to the required diameter. Here's a little trick, take note.

You need to drill strictly perpendicular to the end of the door leaf. At first I thought it was very difficult to control. I mean, perpendicularity. But then I realized that it was easy to do, just by observing how smoothly the drill selects the circle. This is especially noticeable at the beginning of drilling, and having gone a little deeper, you can hardly worry that the drill will deviate from the specified course. But this does not mean at all that you can relax and look not at the drill, but at a cat covered in sawdust passing by.

Installing a latch for an interior door

Well then! The drilling of the holes is completed, now you need to recess the latch bar into the end of the door leaf so that it is “flush” with the plane. Professionals do this using a manual milling machine, but not everyone has one, so you will have to work with a hammer and chisel.

Insert the latch into the hole and trace it with a sharpened pencil. To ensure that the strip stays in place while tracing, I usually immediately drill holes for the fastening screws and lightly tighten them, fixing the strip. Having traced the bar, remove the latch and take a chisel. Need I say that the chisel should not just be sharp, but very sharp?!

Installing a lock in interior door will increase the comfort of living. This is very convenient as it allows you to restrict access small child into rooms where he could disturb adults or get injured. Therefore, cutting into a lock is a fairly common job that almost any homeowner can do.

When performing work on cutting into a lock, you will need the following tools:

• The lock itself, with a set of handles and bolts
• Square and pencil
• Drill
• Core drill, 5 cm in diameter
• Spade drill with a diameter of 23 mm
• Chisel
• Screwdriver or screwdriver.

Having a full set of tools will allow you to complete all stages of the work quickly and accurately. If something is missing, it is better to ask friends or acquaintances for a tool than to try to do without them, as this will lead to poor quality work and unsatisfactory appearance.

Marking

Usually the handle is located at a height of about a meter from the floor, so it will be convenient for use by people of any height. Therefore, we measure 95 - 100 cm from the bottom edge of the canvas and make a mark. Then, at the selected level, using a square, we mark the centers of future holes. On the end plane the center of the lock will be in the middle, and on the side plane it is necessary to retreat 6 - 10 cm from the edge. This is the place of the future lock and handle.

Drilling

Drilling holes for the lock starts from the end. A feather drill is installed in the drill and a hole about three centimeters deep is drilled exactly at the marked center. This is the place for the lock tongue.

After this, a core drill with a diameter of 5 centimeters is installed in the drill. Use it to drill holes on the sides. If you are not sure that you will be able to drill the hole horizontally, without distortion, then you need to mark it and drill on both sides. In this case, the drilling depth is equal to half the thickness of the door. If everything is done correctly, you will get a round through hole with a diameter of 5 centimeters, which has a side hole with a diameter of 23 millimeters.

Before installing the lock, you must cut out a recess for the latch. To do this, the lock is inserted into the door and the latch plate is outlined with a pencil. Along this contour, using a chisel and hammer, a recess with a depth of approximately 3 - 5 mm is selected, depending on the thickness of the plate. At the same time, a recess for the tongue is cut out on the door jamb according to the size of the special trim. This is where the lock tongue will go and hold the door closed. When both recesses are ready, the lock and recess are fixed to the jamb using the self-tapping screws that usually come with the kit.

Installation of handles

The further process does not cause any difficulties. The handle with screws is put into place first. The screws are unscrewed and the handle is inserted into the lock. To do this, the handle has a special square-section rod, which passes through the corresponding hole in the lock. After that, a second handle is put on this rod on the other side and secured with screws. Then decorative overlays and the handles themselves are put on. This completes the installation process.

After this, all that remains is to remove the debris and tools.

Useful notes

Even if you are confident in your abilities and know how to drill, it is better to work with a core drill from both sides. This will ensure a neat cut and there will be no chips or burrs on the surface of the door that will ruin its appearance.

It is better to drill a recess for the lock in the end of the door after the hole for the handles has been drilled. This way you will be sure that the hole is completely connected to the main one. Otherwise, you may need to drill out a hole for the lock.

When choosing a recess for the lock plate, work must begin with the outline. The entire contour is outlined with gentle blows, and only after this the wood is selected. This will prevent chips and cracks from appearing.

Do not over-tighten the screws on the handles. The fixation should be tight, but not excessive. Otherwise, dents may appear on the surface of the door, spoiling its appearance.

Video How to make a lock on a door

After installation, the question inevitably arises of how to fit a lock into an interior door. The door should close tightly, open easily and fit securely in the opening. All these tasks are easily handled by a lock or latch with a latch.

If possible, it is better to purchase doors with already built-in locks and handles. Otherwise, this issue will have to be resolved by inviting a master or installing locks yourself.

Lock selection

Just like the fittings, the lock should be in harmony with the interior, combined with the texture and color scheme of the decor. This largely depends on the design of the linings and handles.

As for functionality, two types of mechanisms are suitable for interior doors:

• Mortise lock with or without separately installed handle.
• Latch lock. As a rule, it is located in the handle itself and has a round shape.

Recently, installing a magnetic door lock has become popular. Such a device often eliminates the need to install push- or rotary-type handles.

Using the magnetic mechanism is simple, and installing a magnetic lock with your own hands does not require the use of special tools. The installation of a magnetic device is used in cases where it is necessary to ensure quiet operation and complete absence of the risk of being scratched on the tongue or crossbars.

However, installing a lock on an interior door, depending on its type, has its own characteristics.

The thickness of the embedded door device should be no more than a third of the width of the end. It is recommended to work exclusively with well-sharpened tools. It is not recommended to install the lock at the junction of door bars.

Required Tools

To correctly insert a lock into the door with your own hands, you should prepare the appropriate tool:

• Drill and set of drill bits for wood.
• Milling cutter, chisel and carpenter's knife.
• Hammer.
• File.
• Screwdriver.
• Ruler or tape measure, pencil or chalk.

Features of the sidebar

The door material can be very different. Solid wood products are the easiest to work with. The fabric is homogeneous, you can assemble the structure yourself and it is impossible to make a mistake with the insertion location. Wood is more difficult to drill, but the likelihood of errors and flaws when working with your own hands is greatly reduced.

MDF doors are the most problematic in this matter. This is due to the fact that it is very important to hit the power beam, which is located by default at a height of one meter from the floor. But it’s easy to remove the old one and install a new one.

It is not recommended to install a mortise lock on PVC doors yourself. Without good skills and professional tools it is unlikely to succeed. The fact is that mistakes are almost impossible to correct.

To do this, use the same tools plus carbon paper or plasticine. With their help, marks are made on the crossbar on the jamb in the fully closed position of the door.

Lock installation

For do-it-yourself installation, there is a special algorithm or operating technology. To do everything correctly, you need to do the work in the following order:

• The first step is to dismantle the door. It is necessary to remove the platbands. You will also have to remove the old lock.
• Then the interior door should be removed from its hinges and placed edge-on on the floor with the hinges down.
• Then you need to take measurements of the height, thickness and width of the lock body.
• 100 cm is measured from the lower end of the canvas and a mark is applied. The second is planned from it at a distance equal to the height of the castle.

• Next, two parallel lines are drawn between the marks in the middle of the end of the blade, spaced from each other by the thickness of the locking product. As a result, at the end of the door you should get a rectangle exactly under the lock body.
• Now holes are drilled inside our rectangle. The drill bit should be equal to or slightly smaller in diameter than the thickness of the lock body. The first hole is made in the center, and then higher and lower. The depth of the hole should correspond to the width of the lock, but holes are first made one cm deep and then deepened to the desired size.
• Then the chisel comes into play. With its help, the correct cutout for the lock is formed. In the same way, a separate cutout is made for the handle.
• Now a cutout is made for the handle and lock on the side of the canvas. The lock body is applied to the blade and the position of the mechanism axis is marked. At this point a cutout is made for a cylinder or keyhole.
• When all the cutouts are ready, the actual installation process begins. The lock is inserted inside and, after checking the functionality, secured to the door with self-tapping screws. The lining at the end is screwed with self-tapping screws, also included in the kit.
• The handles are inserted and the linings are screwed on.
• The door rises and hangs again on its hinges.
• Then markings are made for the answer on the jamb. The door is closed and the position of the tongue is noted. An overlay is applied and its extreme positions are marked.
• The cutouts are made in the same way, after which the cover is screwed on with self-tapping screws.

Latch Installation

First, the insertion location is marked. This is done using the paper template supplied in the kit. As a rule, the latch is placed at the intersection of the following lines:

• Horizontal floor, held at a height of one meter.
• Vertical, held 6-7 cm from the edge of the canvas. This size depends on the depth of the halyard latch.

You can see the installation in the video:

Then the handle mechanism is inserted and the size of the opening under the lock plate is marked with a pencil. The sample can be made with a chisel. The handle is attached with self-tapping screws.

After this, the parts of the knob are connected with screws and a decorative ring is mounted. Then the door is closed and the position of the strike plate is marked on the jamb. A sample is made on the box for the tongue. A 2 mm cut is made under the rebate strip. Everything is fixed with self-tapping screws.

As you can see, there is nothing supernatural. It is quite possible to install a lock with your own hands if you do everything slowly and carefully. After installation, it makes sense to check the tightness of the fasteners, the fixation of the linings, the handle and the lock body. If all is well, the lock will last a long time.

It is, of course, better to entrust the installation of an anti-burglary entrance door with a high-security lock to specialists who know not only their job, but also the working techniques of intruders. But cutting a lock into an interior door with your own hands carefully and so that the lock does not jam, the door does not rattle and its loose jamb does not spoil the finish is quite possible for any home craftsman. Just keep in mind that this lock will be “from honest people,” simply to limit access to the room. Most often, the need for this type of work arises when children grow up and/or older family members retire. Quite often, if the apartment has the office of a business person or creative worker. In the first case, the secret mechanism (cylinder) of the lock with the key hole is located inside the room; in the second outside.

Reliability problem

The reliability of an interior door with a lock has a different meaning than an entrance door. An exception is the door to a room to which access is strictly limited (storage of liquid assets, weapons room, workshop with hazardous equipment and/or harmful substances and so on.). Here you need a reliable steel door, no less resistant than the entrance door.

Note: If this is your case, check the walls first. Suddenly they are partitions made of foam blocks, gypsum boards, etc., the room is unsuitable for this purpose. The burglar will immediately see the weakness, use a super-duper lock with all its secrets and simply cut through or break through the partition.

The lock is inserted into the interior door taking into account the trace. circumstances. Atmospheric pressure at sea level is approx. 1 kgf/sq. cm. This is a very large value, we simply adapted to it in the process of evolution. For example, due to an open window, when the ventilation is turned on, due to temperature differences, etc. the pressure on one side of the door changed by only 1%, i.e. by 10 g/sq. cm. The area of ​​the standard door leaf is 75x190 cm - 14250 sq. cm. The excess load on the canvas on one side will be 142.5 kgf. If the door is hung on 2 hinges, the tongue of the lock and its catch eye (mating part) under it in the door jamb will account for slightly less than half of this value; if the door has 3 hinges - a little more than a third.

Note: There is no point in hanging a door with more than 3 hinges - the concentrated load on the lock tongue and eye does not drop much, but the door jamb ends up weakened and overloaded.

70-45 kgf pointwise is a small load in general - if it is static. But dynamic, repeating and smaller ones operate on the principle “A drop wears away a stone.” In the case when the lock in the door is not inserted correctly (large play, tight movement of the tongue, etc.), over time, firstly, damage to the door and jamb develops: loosening, cracking, peeling of the door leaf coating. If the door and jamb are very strong, the wallpaper will first tear along its contour, then a crack will creep in, and the plaster will begin to crumble. Then it’s clear: unscheduled repairs with all the worries and troubles that flow from the wallet and flow into the head. Therefore, the material in this article is focused on the intricacies of work that make it possible to embed a lock into a door between rooms so that it does not rattle and spoil the room for at least 15 years.

MDF doors

The design of an MDF door is shown in the figure:

It is generally the same as the old “Khrushchev” doors made of fiberboard on a plank frame. But due to the high overall strength and rigidity of the base material, the frame is assembled from a fairly thin beam, which cannot be weakened with cutouts - the door will quickly become unusable. To insert a lock, the frame is reinforced with a backing beam (highlighted in color). For greater reliability of the entire structure, the distance from the bottom edge of the door to the longitudinal axis of the lock tongue is 965 mm by default. If the lock has a separate latch, the countdown is to the middle of the distance between the axes of it and the tongue. If there are several tongues, then to the middle of the distance between their common longitudinal axis and the axis of the latch.

Locks for interior doors

The security mechanisms for interior locks are usually simple: a cylinder cylinder or a lever. The disk larva is used less frequently.

Due to the ease of insertion, convenience and features of use, trail locks are most often installed on interior doors. species (see figure):

1. “flat” - in a rectangular case, with tongue(s) separate from the latch. The mechanism, as a rule, has increased secrecy, the handle is halyard (push);
2. “round” – in a cylindrical body. Any type of pen. The tongue and latch are aligned. The cylinder cylinder and latch stopper are embedded in the handle spindle;
3. “flat” of reduced height without a latch with a rotary handle;
4. “round” with a knob handle.

To insert a lock into an interior door carefully and securely, you must also take into account its design and the thickness of the door leaf:

• Made from MDF 35 mm thick.
• The same, 45 mm thick.
• New wooden with panel thickness from 50 mm.
• Old wooden or fiberboard on a plank frame.

Flat

Flat interior locks are the most expensive and are more difficult to insert than round ones, but they provide the best protection against burglary by unskilled intruders. However, they weaken a door with a jamb more than a round door. This type of lock must be matched to the existing door. First, only a flat lock of reduced height can be inserted into a 35 mm thick MDF door (item 3 in the figure above).

Also, look at Fig. with dimensional drawings of flat locks. Pay attention to the sizes highlighted in color. Only locks can be inserted into MDF doors if, firstly, the thickness of the thickest tongue is no more than 15 mm. Secondly, the width of the lock's end plate should be no more than 24 mm. Reason: dynamic loads from the lock should be taken by a wooden frame, and not by a skin made of thin, rather fragile MDF. Therefore, from those shown in Fig. Only the one on the left can be inserted into MDF doors.

The castle in the center in Fig. Suitable for old wooden and “Khrushchev” doors. They are usually thicker than 45 mm, but old, shriveled wood also becomes brittle; most often also cracked. Therefore, only the thickness of the tongue and resp. becomes critical. lock body. Finally, the castle on the right in Fig. Suitable for wooden doors with a leaf thickness of 40 mm or more. If a decorative coating is applied to solid wood - for a door with a thickness of 50 mm or more, because There must be at least 10 mm of wood left from the side edges of the end plate to the coating.

Round

Round locks for interior doors best option for an ordinary apartment or house. You can embed them into any door. Locks with a halyard handle are usually installed where there are sick or infirm people for whom it is difficult or impossible to operate a turning handle. Knob handles are the safest: they cannot be scratched or caught on clothing. The technology for inserting round locks with handles of any type is the same.

The lock design for an interior door in a cylindrical body is shown on the left in the figure:

By default, such locks are produced for doors with a thickness of 35 or 45 mm. Locks for solid wooden doors in the periphery are not always available for sale. In this case, the lock can be adapted to a door of any thickness by replacing the latch carrier (highlighted in red in the center) with a longer one: this is a simple rectangular plate made of ordinary steel 2-3 mm thick with a hole at one of the ends. The latch output switch (on the right in the figure) is set to the corresponding position. door jamb material: 70 mm for wood, 60 for MDF.

Also, by default, round locks are released with the cylinder facing inward, so that you can lock from the inside. If your door is left-handed (opens to the left), and accordingly. There is no lock in the nearest store, the cylinder and the latch can be rearranged in advance (required!) by disassembling the lock (see the figure on the right and below). However, for an office and other premises where outsiders should not have access in the absence of the owner, this is not an option, because From the cylinder side, the round interior lock can be disassembled without special tools.

Disassembly and installation of a round lock

Round locks are sold disassembled into 3 assemblies: a body with a tongue, a socket with a latch handle and carrier, a handle socket with a cylinder. The latch socket skirt has holes for mounting screws; in the skirt of the socket larvae there are blind threaded sockets for them. To install the lock in the door, put the housing in place (see item 4 in the figure below and below) and insert the carrier into the groove of the tongue pusher. Then apply the socket to the canvas and check the movement of the latch: it should retract when the handle is turned to the right (clockwise). If on the contrary, turn the latch socket 180 degrees. Now put the socket of the larva in place so that the end of the carrier falls into its groove. They tighten the sockets with screws, put on a decorative trim - you're done.

To completely disassemble the lock, for example, to replace the cylinder, first remove the handle with it. To do this, you need to press the latch on the neck of the handle (shown by the arrow in position 1 in the figure).

The handle will slide down the chute (item 2), but the cylinder will remain in place. To get to its latch (ring or pin), as well as to the latch stop latch, you need to insert a hook into the window of the decorative trim (shown by the arrow in item 3), use it to pry the latch and pull it towards you. Now the lock can be completely disassembled. More expensive locks are also equipped with linings that cover the heads of the mounting screws. They are removed in exactly the same way.

Standing or lying down?

You need to know how your lock is disassembled and installed even before you approach the door with the tool. But let's get back to the topic. The first issue that is important for the quality of work that needs to be resolved is to remove the door from the hinges to insert the lock (to insert it “lying down”) and work in place (“standing”).

Experienced craftsmen, for whom time is money, who own power tools (see below), always work lying down. Those who are also experienced, but who do mortise locks manually from time to time, also prefer to work while lying down. In both cases, the speed, quality and stability of the work results more than pays for the time spent removing and re-hinging the door, see for example. video:

Video: inserting a door lock while lying down

A novice locksmith who intends to make money/earn extra money by cutting locks must also immediately get used to working while lying down, otherwise you won’t be able to fend off customer complaints. For the home craftsman, the “lying” method will be more convenient, firstly, when completely replacing a door with a jamb. Secondly, in the process of arranging and finishing a new house/apartment, because... The most tedious task of removing old doors is eliminated. But it is better to do a one-time manual insertion of a lock into an existing door while standing, see the video:

Video: inserting a door lock while standing

Tool

It's even more important to get the right tool. Some standard samples may need to be modified to accommodate locks, see below.

If you are going to work on doors and locks professionally and you expect a lot of orders, it is advisable to immediately acquire a plunge-cutting wood milling machine (on the left in the figure), its cost will be recouped by the speed and quality of the work.

As a rule, in addition to the carriage, plunge-cutting routers are supplied with templates, with the help of which you can carry out a full cycle of work on installing the door, see the story:

Video: installing a door with a lock mortise

For a beginner, in this case, the most important thing is not to make a mistake in choosing a rather expensive tool, so we offer a selection of videos:

Video: how to choose a wood milling machine

Video: what cutters a beginner should buy for it

Video: how to determine the quality of a cutter when purchasing

If orders for inserting locks are expected in the meantime, then the router will completely replace the proprietary template for inserting a lock with complete core drills. Its advantage is that many kits allow you to immediately accurately mark and install the mating part of the tongue (eyelet). This is the most difficult operation for inserting a lock, see below. Disadvantage – the template is only suitable for manufacturer’s locks. A possible solution is to install your own lock (bought by a master); owners of lock templates are often given discounts. The owners seem to have a good time: they don’t have to go shopping and struggle with the choice, and a small markup doesn’t hurt their pockets. But in a big city this is hardly an option - where is the guarantee that an unfamiliar master has not made duplicate keys for himself in advance?

Note: the template(s) for inserting a branded lock/locks according to his/their dimensional drawings can be made with your own hands, see next. video:

Video: a simple template for marking a door

For manual work

A one-time insertion of a lock with your own hands for yourself will have to be done manually according to the markings: it will take 3-4 hours to make the simplest template, and without it, standing in place, the greenest, but not armless, “teapot” will insert the lock in an hour. A more or less experienced home craftsman - in half an hour. For an electrified tool, you will need a drill or screwdriver with a power of 170 W or more, because... For a flat lock you will have to drill deep holes, and for a round lock, wide ones.

In addition to the usual household tools, you will need, firstly, a feather drill and, for a round lock, a core drill for wood, pos. 1 in Fig. There are no problems with crowns: the required diameters (50 or 54 mm) are standard. But the nib for a round lock needs 23 mm. This is non-standard; these do not exist in regular sets (item 2). This means you need to either look for it separately, or adjust it to 25 mm manually, for example. on a surface grinding machine – grinder. It is not advisable to turn: you can screw up the drill, the cutter, and the machine itself. The best option is a tabletop drilling machine (you can use a drill): a 25 mm pen is clamped into the chuck, turn on the drill and use an emery block to bring it to 23 mm; Micron precision is not needed here.

It is easier to select a chisel/chisels (item 3): it is used to select a recess under the end plate of the lock. Its width for most locks corresponds to the standard sizes of chisels. If the legs of the lining are rounded (nowadays they are rarely done), the chisel will need a joint knife (like a shoemaker's knife) with a hard blade, see below. A mounting knife will not work!

Finally, if you are installing a lock on an old wooden door, it is highly advisable to purchase a hand crank, pos. 4. This simple and not particularly expensive tool is generally very useful for working with old wood. Unlike a power tool, a rotator allows your hands to feel the resistance of the material - the likelihood of chipping, cracking and generally damaging the part is much less with it.

How to work manually

Inserting a lock into a door is a rather delicate matter: from the holes for the lock and tongue catcher to the outer surface of the door leaf (possibly with an expensive finish), no more than 10-12 mm of wood remains; usually 5-7 mm. Therefore, you need to work with the lock manually carefully and correctly: one awkward movement - and the door is damaged.

First, do not drill right through the door with a crown for a round lock, pos. 1 in Fig. The likelihood of ruining the finish is very high. You need to drill with a crown until the guide drill appears on the other side, and drill further from there. The hole will have a slight ledge inside, but it does not affect the quality of this work in any way.

Secondly, do not drill with a pen immediately following the markings, especially when working while standing in weight, pos. 2. First you need to drill a pioneer (guide) hole with a diameter of 3-4 mm. Achieving its deviation from the perpendicular to the part by 2 degrees or less with a twist drill is easy for a beginner, but with a pen it is difficult for an experienced one. Moreover, since the guide tooth of the pen describes, while rotating, a conical surface, it will not initially feel the bevel of the pioneer hole; it will stand perpendicular. And when the feather wings enter the tree approx. 1/3 of the height, then the entire drill will become self-guided.

If the door is wooden, then you need to select the end plate with a chisel, holding it with the bevel of the blade towards the wood, pos. 3 – this way the tool will not crash into the tree and split it. If the door is made of MDF (homogeneous material), then the chisel is held, on the contrary, with the bevel outward. This way the decorative coating will come off as shavings (item 4), but if it’s the other way around, a long flake may come off.

Note: if the legs of the end plates are rounded, resp. Parts of the markings, melted under them before being removed with a chisel, are cut with a jamb knife to a depth equal to the thickness of the end plate (2-3 mm). On MDF doors this is much simpler - the thickness of the decorative coating corresponds to the thickness of the linings, and the difference in the cutting force of the coating and the base material (it is harder) is very well felt by the hand.

About markup

Most of the marking operations when inserting a lock are carried out using templates or parts of the lock applied locally. It is better to make markings with a needle or a sharp awl, then you can process directly along the contour. If you use a pencil, then when processing you will have to take into account the width of the stroke and the indentation of the lead from the template/part, which is not easy for a good craftsman. But you cannot replace the awl/needle with a metal scriber: it is sharpened in such a way that it gives an indentation even greater than the stylus, and the scratch from it does not erase.

Flat lock mortise

The procedure for inserting a flat lock into a wooden door is shown in Fig. below. Notes to it, first - on the door, first mark with a pencil a vertical center line and a horizontal one 965 mm from the bottom (for doors made of solid wood and old ones - 800 mm). Marking on the attached lock (pos. a in the figure) in in this case It is also better to do it with a pencil and select a socket along the lock along its contour, this will provide the required installation gap.

Second, it is better to drill the lock socket (pos. b) with a feather drill with a diameter 1-3 mm larger than the thickness of the lock body. For accuracy, drill in 2 steps, along the pioneer holes, see above. Sampling the socket with a chisel, marking the outline of the hole using the lock inserted into the socket, and sampling the hole (pos. c-d) are carried out as described above.

There is a nuance in the marking of the holes for the handle cylinder and spindle, pos. e. It is made according to the lock attached to the side, but the holes are drilled with an additional offset from the end of the door S, equal to the thickness of the end plate. The shaped hole for the cylinder is made in 3 steps: drill a round one for the cylinder (larger), a smaller round one for the bottom of the pin cassette, and remove the remains with a chisel.

The last operation is fitting the lock, see fig. on right. It is put into the nest without the handle and the larva, and both are put in place. A loose lock assembly should have a play of approx. 1 mm on all sides.

Note: The handles from the flat lock can be removed if you unscrew the screws holding the sockets together, as with a round one, see above. There is no need to remove anything else from the lever lock. To remove the cylinder lock cylinder, you need to unscrew the Phillips screwdriver, the head of which is located on the end plate under the tongue/tongues. After this, turn the cylinder of the larva with a key little by little back and forth, pushing the larva with your finger until it comes out. The larva is put in place in the reverse order. After installation, check, also turning the cylinder with a key, whether the tongue moves, i.e. whether the carrier (link) of the larvae entered the groove of the tongue crossbar.

Round lock mortise

Installing a round lock on an interior door is much easier than installing a flat one. First, pioneer holes are marked using a template according to the thickness of the door and the exit of the tongue. The marking is carried out from the side of the larva. If the sockets of the cylinder and the latch need to be swapped, this is done before marking, see above. Then the pioneer holes are drilled. There is one very important trick here, which is discussed below in the section on installing the response part. Then large holes are selected with a crown, and the lock is inserted into the socket. The countersunk is marked along its end plate, selected, and the lock is assembled on site using standard screws.

Drawings of templates for marking doors for round locks with a diameter of 50 and 54 mm are given in the figure. To transfer them to cardboard/paper, the drawing is printed and redrawn to scale so that the distances marked in green are equal to those indicated. This can be done the old fashioned way with a drawing pantograph; homemade will work too. More accurate and faster - in a good vector graphics program, for example. CorelDraw. There you can set the length of the measured segment with an accuracy of literally up to a micron, and scale it in steps of hundredths of a percent. The raster image (bitmap) is imported into CorelDraw, scaled according to a measured segment (CorelDraw also has measuring tools, but in this case it is more convenient to scale as needed) and printed - that’s it, the template is ready.

Installation of the mate

This is the most difficult and important part of inserting a lock into an interior door. It is an incorrectly installed or bad eye that is most common reason rattling and warping of the door, jamming of the lock, loosening of the jamb and damage to the wall finish. To avoid this, a modern lock tongue eyelet consists of 2 parts (except for fastening hardware): the eyelet itself (lining on the jamb with a cutout for the tongue) and a tongue catcher - a plastic box (on sale for some reason it is called decorative, although it is not visible ), pressed by the eye. The box dampens dynamic loads on the tongue and protects the jamb material from direct contact with it. For the same purposes, the eyelet is made with an adjustable mustache, see below.

About markings under the tongue

Installation of the eye begins with marking the end of the lock tongue on the jamb; everything else is not tied to. Usually the tongue on a joint is marked by marks and measurements, see fig. on right. But this can be done much more accurately in other ways, different for flat and round locks. In the first (“flat”) case, a lining with a thickness of approx. 2 mm is the size of the operational gap of a closed door. The simplest way– fold a piece of paper into several layers, wet your finger, place it on the paper and immediately stick it on the door. Then washable paint is applied to the tongue of the lock (you can smear it thickly with a felt-tip pen). The door is now closed until it slams, i.e. until it stops at a quarter, and with a key push the tongue several times until it stops in the jamb. It will leave a mark clear enough to mark the full outline of the tongue.

In the case of a round lock, the matter is simplified again. There is no need to coat its tongue with paint, especially since it is beveled and has a complex cross-section. But you need to take your time at the end of the door to drill a 23 mm hole (socket) for the lock body. They drill a 50 or 54 mm hole in the canvas for the sockets, and for now leave a pioneer hole with a diameter of 4 mm at the end. Then the door is closed until it slams (without lining), a 4 mm self-tapping screw is inserted from the cylinder side and the center of the tongue on the jamb is marked with it. For clarity, what it looks like with the door open is shown in Fig. on the right, but in reality the door should be closed. The tip of the screw will go 1-1.5 mm as the door opens, which will give the required operating clearance.

Installation of eye and catcher

Installation of the counterpart of the interior door lock after marking the tongue mark on the door jamb is carried out step by step. order (see also fig.):

1. The lock must be fully assembled on site and securely fastened;
2. The eyelet is turned over (it is symmetrical relative to horizontal axis), apply it in place so that the vertical axes of the tongue and the eyes coincide and mark its mounting holes (marked with arrows). Do not bend or break off the adjusting tab (also marked with an arrow)! At the same step, a pocket with a depth of the thickness of the eye is selected;
3. Apply the catcher in the same way and mark the outer contour of its tray with marks by hand;
4. The outer contour of the catcher tray is beaten in place;
5. Drill a socket for the catcher. Do this with a pen, as in pos. 5, actually it’s not necessary, especially if the jamb is made of MDF: a through hole from the guide tooth will weaken the jamb. It is better to drill in the corners with a twist drill;
6. Using a chisel, select the catcher's nest;
7. The catcher is already applied in the working position;
8. Mark its outer contour;
9. Choose a trap under the catcher;
10. The catcher is put in place;
11. Cover it with an eyelet already in the working position;
12. Drill holes locally for small self-tapping screws, with a diameter 1.5-2 mm smaller than the standard ones;
13. Temporarily secure the eyelet with small self-tapping screws;
14. Check the movement of the tongue (whether it is stuck) and the play of the closed door - yes, no;
15. The tight movement of the tongue and the play of the closed door are eliminated by removing the eye and carefully bending/bending its adjusting tab;
16. The mating part is finally secured with standard fasteners.

Note: The adjusting tabs of the mate parts of cheap “alternative” locks often break off at step 15. The only thing I can advise here is to bend it carefully with pliers.

About magnetic locks

There are mainly 3 types of magnetic locks for interior doors on sale. The first ones - electromagnetic - came into everyday life along with intercoms. The disadvantages are the same: they are volatile, the electricity is small, but they drain. If the room is de-energized, the lock opens without the possibility of locking - enter whoever wants. Additionally, in residential premises, you need to drill a channel in the door, and tap a groove in the walls for the power wires. Or cover them with boxes, which is also quite labor-intensive and ugly. An electromagnetic interior lock most often fits like a round one; less often as flat. Suppliers even offer coded electromagnetic locks for interior doors. In a Stalinist-style communal apartment or for partitions in a privatized dorm, these may be necessary. But in a family apartment or house, it frankly smacks of paranoia.

The second type is still very rare due to the sky-high price and the lack of any advantages over mechanical ones. These are non-volatile locks with niobium supermagnets. They cut in like flat ones, but the requirements for accuracy and precision of work are lower: the counter part is a strip made of ferromagnetic material. It is impossible to push open a door with a supermagnet lock, and not every healthy man can knock it down with his shoulder. Unlocking - interception of the magnetic flux by countermagnets introduced by turning the handle between the holding ones. The disadvantage is serious: fairly rapid degradation of magnets.

The reliability of metal doors will never replace the beauty and environmental friendliness of their wooden counterparts. However, such products have their own characteristics, and they also relate to the installation of locks. You can even do this kind of work with your own hands if you know how to do it.

Required tools and components

Inserting locks into wooden panels requires the use of:

• wood drill;
• a set of steel crowns;
• a set of chisels;
• roulette;
• construction pencil;
• screwdrivers - slotted and Phillips;
• drills;
• screwdrivers;
• hammer.

The selection of the lock plays a very important role. In this case, they focus on the size of the structure. An excessively thick lock will not allow the required mass of wood to be provided on the left and right sides. If there is less than 1 cm of wood left there, the door will not be strong enough. A kick is enough for the entire canvas to crack.

Additionally, it is necessary to control the depth of the lock entry. Some of the canvases are thicker on the outside than in the center. The glazed part can also present difficulties. If you have to prepare a place to insert a large lock, it is easy to deform the material. As for fasteners, they must be selected in accordance with the instructions from the manufacturers.

Often you can't get by with a drill or angle grinder. The optimal device for inserting locks into doors made of solid wood or other wooden materials is considered to be a manual router. Although "almost ready" lock mortise kits are relatively inexpensive, professionals advise choosing each tool individually. This allows you to finally be sure of its quality (both when purchasing and when renting). In addition, this solution helps to save money.

Sequence of work

If the product is selected properly, you need to correctly embed the lock into the wooden door. They start by applying the lock to one of the sides, in the right place. Using a construction marker, trace the part - using the drawn lines you can finally determine whether the choice of lock and location is correct. If there are no errors, the position is marked on the end face of the door. When the set contains a special paper template, use it.

Take a feather drill, the thickness of which is chosen very carefully. Then, using a screwdriver, passes are prepared to form a vertical line. The outer edges of the holes must be mutually adjacent. If the required drill is not available, smaller drills can be used. They arrange holes in 2 or 3 tiers.

Now you need to take a chisel, which allows you to remove excess wood. A slotted screwdriver is a substitute for a chisel, but such a tool is not convenient enough. Then they insert the product into the prepared place, trace the end strip with a marker and pull out the closing part. Strictly along the line, 0.2 - 0.3 cm of wood is removed. This will allow the lock to be deepened into the door, placing the bar flush.

This technique is used when installing locks to prevent the strip from hitting the surface of the box. If the gap is large enough, you can skip this stage. The next step is to mark on both sides the space for the key hole or for the lock cylinder. If the structure has handles, marks are also made for them. The lock is pulled out and drilled in the marked places.

Now you can insert the lock back and evaluate the correctness of the prepared holes. The larva (if any) is fixed with a screw from the end. Next, insert the square base from the handles, screw the handles themselves. The key is inserted and the lock is immediately checked. Opening and closing should be easy, without the key rubbing against the wood.

Then it’s time to mark the holes for the crossbar elements and the striker plate. The easiest way to do this is to do it yourself using paste. When the door is fully open, the lock is locked and the end of one or more bolts is lubricated. Next, you need to open the bolt, close the door, and lock the lock. Normally it will not lock, however, paste tracks will appear. They will indicate how and where to make the holes for the counter block. They are drilled immediately to eliminate mistakes.

A counter plate is applied to the holes and a mark is made along its contour with a pencil. Using a chisel, remove part of the wood. This will deepen the bar. All that remains is to secure it. Now the door is closed and the lock is checked again. When everything works fine, decorative overlays are installed. That's it, you can enjoy excellent results. There is nothing complicated about it.

To ensure an exact match between the actual and planned depth of the holes, electrical tape is glued to the drill. You can select the remaining wood with a chisel. Later the walls are leveled with a chisel. We must strive for groove sizes that will allow the inserted lock to coincide with the end face of the door. This means that when hollowing out a socket, periodic fittings of the product are required.

To make a shaped groove for a keyhole, you need to use a hacksaw. The edges are brought to an ideal shape using sandpaper. Since they are not comfortable enough to work by hand, you can attach the paper to a screwdriver. It is best to use a thin drill bit. The installation of the strike plate for mortise and overlay mechanisms is no different.

It is recommended to choose a drill bit that is thicker than the lock. Usually several notches are drilled so that the web filler can be removed. When drilling is completed, use a chisel and chisel to remove excess debris. But all these rules may turn out to be useless if one more principle is not followed: as soon as something is measured with a tape measure, you must immediately mark it with a pencil or marker. Relying on your memory in such a responsible matter is extremely frivolous.

Handle type lock mortise

This manipulation definitely deserves a separate analysis. Experts recommend playing it safe and sealing the end of the door, as well as its surface, with masking tape. This should be done to prevent possible damage. As practice has shown, it is much more convenient to apply individual marks on the tape. And it will also serve as a clearly visible boundary, which you absolutely must not cross during work.

It is recommended to install lock handles at a height of strictly 100 cm above the floor. This type of lock must always be supplied with a template. Therefore, there are no special problems in marking. Since cylinder mechanisms can be different in size, you need to look for a suitable crown only after purchasing the lock. When using a template, do this:

• it is bent carefully along the line of the door protrusion;
• applied from the end side;
• make marks showing the centers of the holes.

In these places a hole is drilled in the plane of the door. It is not advisable to pierce through it. As soon as the guide drill comes out from the opposite side, they pause and start drilling with a crown from the inside out. This approach is truly professional and avoids splitting the wood. Then it's time to prepare the holes for the latch.

At the same time, they work in the marked places with a 2.3 cm drill bit. You need to go to the previous hole. The drill is held strictly at an angle of 90 degrees to the door. Otherwise, there is a high risk that the latch will jam and work poorly. When the passage is ready, the latch is inserted into it.

Now you need to align the location of the element with respect to the edge. A pencil will help you trace the outline of the decorative frame. Next, removing the latch with a utility knife, cut the canvas along this line. When this work is completed, using a chisel, select a secret cavity, which should be slightly smaller in size than the latch frame. You cannot clean out the cavity initially; this may result in damage to the film with a chisel.

Having prepared the groove, return the product to its place, tightening the latch with self-tapping screws. The holes for them are drilled in advance with a 2 mm drill. If the part moves slowly, you need to trim the contacting places. The assembly of the handle itself is done according to the manufacturer's instructions. It is imperative to pay attention to how the tongue is positioned (normally it always faces inside the room).

To learn how to embed a lock into a wooden door with your own hands, watch the following video.

Inserting a lock is a responsible and quite labor-intensive undertaking. It is in the final stages of renovation. The whole process can be left to professionals in the workshop, or you can do the insertion yourself. To do this, you need to acquire a set of carpentry tools, since it will be impossible to embed a lock into an interior door without them.

Selecting a suitable lock

To choose a suitable lock for an interior door, you need to clearly define the requirements for it. The emphasis when choosing is on:

• quality;
• unique design;
• color;
• noiselessness;
• key lock;
• latch functionality.

A handle is a must for an interior door, but a lock is not always necessary. The product is selected according to this principle. For the bathroom and toilet, a lock is required, but for the bedroom, an ordinary latch is enough. There are 3 types of mortise locks:

1. WC type. This type of lock allows the user to close it on one side only, without using a key.
2. Patent type. The most popular type of lock. Allows you to close the door with a key that fits all locks of a certain product model.
3. Yale-type. Equipped with a Eurocylinder system, the uniqueness of the key depends on the secrecy of the lock. Such products are installed in the doors of a room to which access is limited, for example, in an office.
4. Pen lock. This type of lock does not restrict access; it only makes it possible to close the door tightly.

Advice! If there are small children in the house, install locks with a child safety feature or a locking device.

Naturally, you can combine some requirements, but when you go to the store to buy a product, you should have a rough idea of ​​what it will look like. The color of the lock is selected to match the door or, conversely, so that it contrasts against its background.

When buying a castle it costs Special attention pay attention to the appearance of the product. Any scratch or dent is a sign of mechanical damage. You always have the right to refuse such an item before purchasing. Carefully examine all moving mechanisms. The springs must return the tongue and handle of the lock to the starting position without delay. Check the quality of the assembly: when the handle is turned, the tongue should be completely hidden inside the product. If you do not follow this procedure, you will not be able to open the door. Also make sure that your door leaf matches the thickness of the structure. And try opening/closing the lock (if you have one) several times to make sure it works without unnecessary squeaks or crackles.

Required Tools

To insert a lock, there is a special device that not only makes a through hole in the blade for installing a handle, but also cuts out a “pocket” into which the core of the lock is inserted. When installing a door with your own hands, the insertion is carried out using the following tools:

• drill;
• set of wood drills;
• hammer;
• set of chisels;
• pencil;
• measuring tape;
• carpenter's knife.

Important! Observe safety precautions when drilling holes. When working, do not neglect goggles and a mask that protects the respiratory tract.

All tools must be in good working order. Knives and chisels are sharpened. If the tools do not work correctly, you will not only not be able to install the lock, but you will also ruin the blade.

Locks, regardless of their type, are mounted almost identically, the only difference is the “handle” type lock; its insertion is easier and faster.

Drilling a landing hole

Work on installing locks on door leaves is carried out at the final stage of finishing work in the room. No matter how much you cover installed handles and locks with plastic wrap, they will still get dirty or damaged. If the door is installed, and renovation work is ongoing in the room, it is best to screw a self-tapping screw into the place where the lock is installed; it will be enough to cover the door. Also, you should not attach the platbands to the door frame before inserting the lock; the door leaf is removed from the hinges for ease of operation, but they can interfere with this.

To properly embed a lock into an interior door, you need to make precise markings. The product is installed at a distance of 80-90 cm from the bottom of the door leaf. Measure the required distance with a tape measure and mark the insertion location with a pencil. Attach the lock to the end of the door and mark the length of the hole.

Advice. When marking, make a small margin so that the product fits easily into the hole.

It is necessary to draw a line that runs through the center of the end of the door leaf. This will be the basis for cutting out the seat for the lock.

For ease of work, it is necessary to remove the door from its hinges, if it is installed in a door frame, and place the hinges to the floor. Place the canvas in such a way as to provide access from any side.

Drilling out the “pocket” for the lock is the most important step in the installation process of the product.

1. Install a drill bit with a diameter corresponding to the width of the lock (1.2 mm) on the drill.
2. Drill a hole (0.5 cm) at the intersection of the line of the middle of the end and the bottom mark of the lock location.
3. Move the drill 7-8 mm higher and make another hole of the same depth.
4. Continue making holes in 7-8 mm increments until the top mark of the lock location.
5. Return to the bottom mark and cut another 0.5 cm deep along the hole left by the sharper drill. Continue to move carefully until you get an oval groove with a depth corresponding to the dimensions of the lock.
6. Check how freely the lock fits into the resulting hole.

Important! Do not rush to drill the entire depth at once; a hole made in small steps will be neater.

Installing a lock escutcheon

When installing a lock with your own hands, some craftsmen install a lock plate on top of the door leaf, so that when the door fits tightly to the opening, it clings. To prevent this from happening, the lining is recessed into the canvas exactly to its width and compared with the surface of the door.

Inserting a lock is an engineering process, so each stage requires detailed markings. Insert the lock into the drilled hole and make a mark around the entire perimeter of the plank. Make notches with a chisel along the edges of the intended place for the overlay. And carefully remove the inner part by lightly tapping the chisel with a hammer.

Advice. Work with extreme caution to avoid chipping the canvas. And do not drown the lock deep into the door leaf.

Hole for handle and lock core

After the above procedures, you can begin drilling holes to install the lock core and handles. Here the work is faster and easier. You need to drill 2 through holes - one for the handle, the other for the lock core.

But do not forget about the markings: here it must be done, taking into account the design of the lock and the drilling process. Please note that drilling must be done very carefully so that at the exit the pen does not break through, but drills through the front part of the canvas. It is best to avoid drilling through and make 2 marks on both sides of the door, then drill one hole and a second one on the other side.

Important! Make the marks for the holes as accurately as possible; if they do not match, further insertion will be impossible.

The main snag at this stage of the lock insertion process is drilling a hole for the lock core. To make a hole the desired shape You will need to work with a jigsaw or chisel.

Lock assembly and installation process

The final stage of the work being done is the assembly and final installation of the lock in the prepared place. It is very important to follow the sequence of certain actions:

1. Insert the lock into the prepared “pocket” that was cut in the center of the end of the canvas.
2. Secure the product with two self-tapping screws at the top and bottom of the decorative strip.
3. Install the core and attach it at the end by screwing in a long bolt. For the installation to take place correctly, you must insert the key into it with the tongue facing down. Try closing and opening the lock, then tighten the fastener (bolt) in the closed position.
4. Insert the handle fastening pin into the corresponding hole, secure both handles on both sides of the door with self-tapping screws or ties.

The lock is installed and ready for use. If you have done all the work correctly, then the product will serve you flawlessly for many years, and you will not be tormented by the problem of “how to fit a lock into an interior door” for a long time. You can easily do this yourself. The video describes in detail all the points of the insert and shows the process in action.

How to embed a door lock with your own hands: video

What to do if the newly purchased interior door does not have a lock? It's not a problem. It is quite possible to embed a lock into an interior door yourself. This will be discussed in detail later in the article.

General information

So where to start? First of all, it is necessary to measure the width of the vertical bar of the new canvas. After this, you can purchase a lock for the interior door.

Important information

The vertical beam of the door must have a certain thickness. It is at least 40 mm. Otherwise, installing a lock on the interior door makes no sense.

Product types

Currently, there are many types of locks for interior doors. There are models that are embedded separately from the handles or together with them. The technology used to embed locks into interior doors depends specifically on the type of product. Let's look at an example. Locks of the first category are installed in this way: first, the mechanism is mounted, and then handles are mounted on the outer and inner sides of the door. Simple closing designs are also available for sale. We are talking about ordinary latch handles. Their design is simple. However, inserting locks into interior doors in such cases is a rather problematic task. This will require some experience, as well as special tools.

Installation features

Installing locks on an interior door yourself is not such a difficult task. However, it is recommended not to rush and do everything very carefully. Before you cut a lock into an interior door, you need to prepare your tools. In particular, you will need a screwdriver, a chisel, and a drill with a drill bit. Next, we’ll look at how to embed a lock into an interior door in the traditional way.

Work algorithm

As a rule, the handle is located approximately in the middle of the door. Before embedding the lock into the interior door, you need to measure one meter from the floor. This way the place for the future pen is marked. Next, you will need a drill for work. In this case, you will need a feather drill. Using it, a hole is made in the end of the door for the lock. In this case, the required drill diameter is selected. As for the depth of the hole, it is commensurate with the length of the mechanism itself. After this, at the end of the door you need to mark the place for the support plate. In accordance with this contour, a flat area is selected using a chisel. Using a drill, a hole is made where the handle will be located. During the work process, you must be careful and careful. As soon as the drill appears on the other side of the door, you need to stop. Next, the resulting hole is used as a center. Thus, drilling continues, only on the other side of the door.

The final stage

Some people think that you can drill right through the door. However, in this way the canvas can be severely damaged. Installation of a lock on an interior door is carried out in a pre-prepared place. Next, the holes for the screws are marked. You only need to drill according to the markings. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the resulting holes, on which the mechanism is attached. After this, the handle is inserted and the cover intended for the tongue is installed.

Mounting features

Door handles are installed on both sides of the door. Installation of decorative overlays is also necessary. The latter are attached using self-tapping screws. Next you need to fix the rod. It must have a square or hexagonal cross-section. The rod is designed to connect door handles on both sides. Then you need to close the door. After this, the position of the lock tongue is marked on the jamb. Its length is calculated using a ruler. Next, all measurements are transferred to the door jamb. The receiving pad is applied to the applied marks. All this is outlined in pencil. Holes are drilled in accordance with this contour. Next, the seat for the overlay must be brought to the desired shape. This is done using a chisel. Next, the cover is installed and secured using self-tapping screws. Here's how to install a lock on an interior door.

Finishing touches

Finally, you should check how well the door lock closes and opens. If such a need arises, the tongue of the lining is bent or rearranged itself. This mortise process is a great option for a simple wooden door. Thanks to it, the mechanism can be inserted into any convenient place. At the same time, doors made from other materials require a slightly different approach.

Features of MDF options

To fit a lock into such a door, you must have theoretical knowledge and certain experience. It's all about the location of the additional wooden beam (at a height of a meter directly from the floor). In this case, the rest of the door leaf is hollow. Thus, if you try to install the mechanism at a different height, you can hopelessly damage the structure. For this reason, this task is best left to professionals. They have necessary tools and experience that guarantee the preservation of attractive appearance doors.

Working with a router

Using this manual device, locks are inserted into interior doors and hinges are installed. There are milling cutters different types. Most often, mortizing a lock involves using a universal immersion tool. This work can be done even by a person who has picked up a router for the first time. Many people associate this tool with a bulky, expensive machine. In reality we are talking about a compact vertical machine. It is very convenient for manual use.

The following can be done using a router:

1. Niches for locks and hinges have been prepared.
2. Curly profiles are cut out.
3. The edges of the workpiece are aligned.
4. Grooves of any shape are cut, as well as gutters.

What do you need to install a locking mechanism on an interior door yourself using a router? Here is a list of required tools:

1. Chisel.
2. Hammer.
3. Square.
4. Roulette.
5. Drill.
6. Screwdriver.

Progress

The door leaf must be secured in a vertical position on its side. This is done using a slipway. This point needs to be given due attention. It will be inconvenient if you have to constantly support the door while installing the lock. Then markings are made for the tongue. The lock is attached to the door leaf. In this case, the drawn line should pass through the center of the hole. Using a pencil, mark the lower and upper parts of the bar. The same is done to install the lock body. Next, straight lines are drawn at the end of the canvas. This is done using a square. The recess for the mechanism is selected using a manual milling cutter. Cutting more than necessary is not recommended. To do this, masking tape should be applied to the outside of the marking below and above. It will become a kind of limiter. Then another cutter is inserted into the tool, which matches the size of the plank. Next, the required depth is adjusted. It should correspond to the thickness of the plank. A recess is carefully made in the center. Next, you need to prepare the socket for the lock body. Using a router, a straight line is drawn strictly in the center of the marking. Then the intended holes are made with a drill. The remaining wood is removed using a hammer and chisel. The walls of the lock seat are leveled. It is necessary to check how well the mechanism fits there. Next, the handles and the lock itself are installed.

What if there is no cutter?

It is quite possible to fit a lock into a door without this tool. Ordinary tools are required, which almost everyone probably has. However, in some cases, installation will not be possible without a cutter. In particular, this applies to the insertion of a latch lock. Such mechanisms require the presence of a neat hole.

Replacing locks

You will have to resort to it if the keys are stolen or lost. This is due to the fact that they can be used by attackers. It is better to prevent unauthorized entry into the apartment.